A man who knows meatballs

My friend Doron might lust for a more well-endowed kitchen, but he can make a mean meatball.I should have guessed as much. After all, last summer Doron, Elizabeth, and I happened to find ourselves together in Paris for five weeks—quelle coïncidence, non?—and there was much, much meat. The man knows his stuff.Doron and Liz were sharing a sixth-floor walk-up in the tangled heart of the Marais, and

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