Tartiflette

On the rare Saturday evenings when the whole family is chez nous, I try to come up with a dinner plan that will be fun for my children. Often we order pizzas from the "camion-pizza" that sets up every weekend on a village square in front of the town hall. Yesterday, though, with snow still covering the neighborhood, I decided to make a tartiflette. This potato concoction is simple to prepare but one of the ingredients, reblochon cheese, is probably difficult to find outside of France. The recipe could be attempted with any cheese that melts well, but would not be a true tartiflette.

(Re)learning Chinese

I’ve never been a fan of Chinese food, or at least not the stuff that generally goes by that name in the U.S. When I was little, my family often went to our nearby Hunan Chinese Restaurant, but I remember it less for the food than for the décor: the goldfish in the fountain at the center of the room; the tinkly click-click of the beaded curtains in the hallway to the bathroom; and Shawn, the

Chicken Roasted in a Pot: Recipe

Last month it seemed everyone was roasting a chicken. Perhaps the chill in the air inspired a desire for something comforting and familiar. I couldn't watch a cooking show on television, read a newspaper online or food magazine without staring at yet another roast chicken. And blogs! It seems just about every food blogger was roasting chicken. I think it was the steady stream of breathtaking photos that finally got to me.

This is a "poulet en cocotte" recipe that I modified. I saw it on a certain television program and decided I would make it a little differently. It was moist but didn't yield crispy skin. Fresh out of the oven, I particularly enjoy roast chicken with roasted root vegetables or a big green salad and boiled potatoes all slathered with vinaigrette. The next day I shred the leftover chicken and use it in something else like enchiladas, another excellent comfort food.

The liquid from the chicken was very rich and flavorful and I had so much of it leftover, I used it to make grits. Let me tell you, the next time you have any kind of au jus or gravy, use it as part of the cooking liquid in grits and stir in some cheese after taking the pot off the stove. This makes the most amazingly delicious side dish or breakfast. It's perfect on cold mornings when you want something as warm and filling as hot cereal but prefer savory rather than sweet flavors. Honestly, I would make this chicken again just so I had the juice to make grits!

French Style Chicken Roasted in a Pot

4 1/2 to 5 pound roasting chicken
3 teaspoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon butter
1 small onion, roughly chopped
1 small stalk celery, roughly chopped
1 small carrot, roughly chopped
5 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped

Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Pat chicken dry and season with salt. Melt butter in large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add chicken breast-side down. Cook until breast is darkly browned, about 8 minutes. Using a wooden spoon or tongs inserted into cavity of bird, flip chicken and add the vegetables, continue cooking another 6 minutes. Remove Dutch oven from heat; place large sheet of foil over pot and cover tightly with lid. Transfer pot to oven and cook until thermometer registers 160 degrees when inserted in thickest part of breast and 175 degrees in thickest part of thigh, this will take somewhere around an hour and 20 minutes.

Transfer chicken to carving board, tent with foil, and rest a full 20 minutes. Carve chicken, serve with juices from the pot (and carving of the bird).

Enjoy!

Here are just a sampling of January 2009, roast chicken posts. Try visiting a few and see if you don't find yourself planning a chicken dinner...

Last Night's Dinner Roast Chicken 3 Ways

Sticky Gooey Creamy Chewy blog's Roast Chicken with Pancetta & Olives

For The Love of Cooking Lemon, Garlic & Basil Slow Roasted Chicken

Whisk blog's Poulet en Cocotte Grand Mere

Thursday Night Smackdown Chicken with 50 Cloves of Garlic

Serious Eats Paprika Roast Chicken

Photo du Jour

''Une noisette et un croissant, s'il vous plaît.''

All About Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving is an annual American holiday celebrated by families, friends and magazines. Yes. Magazines. In fact, you could say our current version of Thanksgiving was invented by a magazine or more specifically a magazine editor.



Around this time every year, historians regale us with stories of what the first Thanksgiving was really like. We learn that it was unlikely they ate a stuffed turkey, there was no pumpkin pie, no cranberry sauce, and most of the food was provided by the Wampanoag not the pilgrims--who feasted on venison, lobsters, clams, oysters, and fish. Harvest festivals were a long standing tradition for the Wampanoag natives going back way before the arrival of the pilgrims. The pilgrims and colonists, devout Christians, observed many days of "thanksgiving" throughout the year in which prayer and fasting were the order of the day, not feasting.



The first national Thanksgiving was held in December of 1777 by colonists to celebrate the surrender of British General Burgoyne at Saratoga. But Thanksgiving was not celebrated consistently all over the country until much, much later. In 1827, Mrs. Sarah Josepha Hale the editor of the most popular ladies magazine of the day, Godey's Lady's Book, began lobbying all they way up to the president for the instatement of Thanksgiving as a national holiday. She felt it was a moral issue, that Thanksgiving would do no less than strengthen the country. In 1863 Abraham Lincoln finally agreed and proclaimed it that is should be celebrated by all Americans on the same day. The focus of the holiday was unity and peace because the country was undergoing a bloody Civil War, so the proclamation doesn't even mention the Thanksgiving of pilgrims and indians...



But it continues to be magazines that promote Thanksgiving, not just as a religious harvest celebration, but as a celebration of home, family, and sharing. There is hardly a magazine that doesn't make Thanksgiving a cover story in November. Magazines are filled with recipes, crafts and decorations, skits, you-name-it. Unlike other holidays, the magazine version of the holiday is actually the more meaningful one. For a country that prides itself on family and unity and being a country of immigrants, the mythological Thanksgiving is a most wonderful thing. It sure beats a day of prayer and fasting.



Happy Thanksgiving everyone!



Note: A special thanks to Laura Schenone for sharing the story of Sarah Josepha Hale.

Grana Padano

For as long as I can remember I've heard that Parmigiano Reggiano was the king of cheeses. It's the cheese I ate in Italy and cooked with as well. It's the cheese I always buy. I knew about Grana Padano, but believed it was inferior to Parmigiano. A substitute. Poor man's Parmigiano. Wrong. Wrong. Wrong.

First of all, technically you could say Parmigiano is a type of Grana. Grana means grain and refers to the grainy texture of the cheese, and Padano refers to the region where it is produced. Parmigiano is produced in Parma, Reggio Emilia, and Modena. Grana is produced in Piedmont, Lombardy, Piacenza, Veneto, and Trentino. Both cheeses are lactose free and a good source of protein and calcium.

Grana * Produced in a large region * Less expensive than Parmigiano * Made from raw, skim milk * Cows fed grass, cereal & silage * Cows can be treated with antibiotics * Aged from 9 to 24 months and up * Natural preservative, lysozyme

Parmigiano * Produced in a small region * More expensive than Grana * Made from raw skim milk & whole milk * Cows fed grass & cereal * Cows not treated with antibiotics * Aged 24 months or more * Free of preservatives

Because Grana uses more skim milk it is lower in fat and develops flavor more quickly than Parmigiano. I tasted and compared Grana Padano that was aged only 16-20 months and Parmigiano Reggiano that was aged 28-32 months. Here are my tasting notes:

Grana
Buttery, rich, sweet and mildly salty, nutty, creamy with a floral and fruity scent and a flaky, crunchy crystalline texture

Parmigiano
Very salty, rich, nutty, earthy, some crystalline crunchiness

The shocking verdict? I actually preferred the Grana! Because cheese is a natural and seasonal product there will be differences throughout the year. But I encourage you to do your own taste test. I no longer believe Grana is a more popular cheese in Italy only out of price considerations. I will still buy Parmigiano on occasion, but for day to day use, I'll be switching to Grana. Both cheeses can be used as a table cheese, grated over pasta, salad, in traditional risotto dishes and with roasted vegetables.

Recipes using Grana

Recipes using Parmigiano

Notes: I bought the Parmigiano from Rainbow Grocery, the Grana was provided for me and came from Di Palo Selects. The Grana is pictured on the left and the Parmigiano on the right.

It's True, I am a Chocoholic

I just got my very first blog award, and it's from Teresa at Mexican Chocolate Lore and More.  I had always assumed that Mexican Chocolate was the general equivalent of Mexican Hot Chocolate, which for me meant chocolate spiked with a little fiery chili powder.  Wrong on both counts.  Mexican chocolate, according to Teresa (and she's the expert, she's written a book on it, after all!), is uniquely flavored with cinnamon, sugar and cacao nibs (sometimes nuts as well, apparently) and although initially a bit gritty, melts down to the same smooth consistency as the American and European chocolate we may be more used to.  Given that chocolate was initially acquired by the Spaniards from the Aztecs, it only makes sense that it be given such pride of place in Mexican cooking.  Want to know more?  You know where to go.

Thanks again Teresa, both for the award and for introducing me to a new ingredient!!

Creme Fraiche

“Crème fraîche”, or fresh cream, literally, is cultured cream. In that sense, it is like yogurt or buttermilk. It contains about 40% fat. It is originally from France, where it is still done with fresh milk that ferments naturally.
Went to the market yesterday - as I do every Friday - and got some from the diary stand. Then had it with the Gravlax (marinated salmon in dill) I had prepared (see recipe in my website). Delicious!
In the States, the cream of the milk is pasteurized and then a starter culture such as mesophilic, has to be added.
Check in your store for these American brands: Vermont Butter and Cheese Company Kendall Farms in California Alouette by BC-USA Inc., Bellwether Farms, in Sonoma; Alta Dena, in Los Angeles. Any of these crème fraîche is better than the alternatives, heavy cream or sour cream.
You will find many recipes to make “crème fraîche” by adding a tablespoon of buttermilk or yogurt or sour cream to heavy cream. But the result is far from the original product, so I’d advise you try to find one of the brands mentioned above. For recipes with crème fraîche , visit my website and type creme fraiche in the search engine.
Bon appétit!

Happily so

1. Julia Child, you taught me how to hard-boil eggs and make soufflés! You give me hope. When I was about eight, I used to do an imitation of you misting water into the oven for your baguettes, crying “Water! Water! Water!” On Friday I read in the newspaper that you and your husband Paul sent out Valentine’s Day cards one year with a picture of the two of you in your bathtub in Paris. That makes

TUNA FISH SUBZI INDIAN FISH RECIPE VIDEO YouTube VIDEOGULP !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJroD8mWWLYendofvid
[starttext]
TUNA FISH SUBZI INDIAN FISH RECIPE VIDEO YouTube VIDEOGULP !

GULP - TUNA FISH SUBZI INDIAN FISH RECIPE VIDEO

Selection YouTube video Videogulp !
[endtext]

Photo du Jour - Les Saucissons Secs

Various shapes and sizes of air-dried, cured sausages - les saucissons secs - at the weekly market.

Cold Weather Cuisine

Today the Southwest of France was covered by snow, over three feet in one day. All of my family's weekend activities were cancelled, and I ended up with a little time to cook. After a very busy workweek filled with leftovers and frozen foods, I appreciated the chance to warm my family up with a few traditional favorites.

Late in the morning, as the first foot of snow was accumulating, I knew I absolutely had to make gratin de pommes de terre, or potatoes au gratin as Americans seem to say. I have tried a number of recipes for this dish, including a few written by famous chefs, but I usually go back to a basic formula: take a little over two pounds of potatoes, layer them in a baking dish with grated cheese, a little butter, and a bit of garlic between each layer, then pour milk over the whole thing until it pretty much covers the potatoes. I bake them for an hour and usually have to drain off quite a bit of the milk, but they are still delicious. Recipes I have tried with less milk seem to get dry, and recipes with a lot of cream are delicious but terribly rich.

Where did I work this weekend?

Let me give you some hints: it’s located just outside the peripherique of Paris, but still accessible by metro. You will find it on an island. You can only get there with the little boat taxi service. It has a couple of very nice terrasses (outdoor dinning patios) which were put to full use this past weekend.

Despite missing out on all the nice weather, I’m glad I took this assignment. First, I met a fellow cuisinière americaine (american female cook) who also does temp work but she does it in addition to her full-time job at a 2-star michelin restaurant. I must admit it was a breath of fresh air and we were "sisters" for the day, as everyone said. We were the only female cooks there....and we were both Americans! "What is with this?" they all asked. "We have two americans here? Why do all the americans want to come here?!" It was cute.

Second, I got a chance to practice my knife skills. And how. I got my callous back in a mean way! Many in the kitchen world look at "the callous" as a source of pride – it shows you've done a thing or two with the knife. It forms at the place where the top of the blade of your knife rests (rubs really) against your index finger. Shake a cook’s hand, and you’re apt to understand what I’m talking about.

Third, I got to see a service for over 400 people. (This explains my callous!). To put it into proportion, at school or at prior restaurants where I worked, the highest number of covers I saw was 70 (that's kitchen speak for # of seats). This weekend was an absolutely beautiful day & everybody seemed to come to the island. Sunday's lunch service never wanted to end. It was order after order after order after order....nonstop....like a marathon. Unbelievable. And on top of it, there were no order tickets. All orders were called out verbally. Think about that! We went through kilos of coquilles saint jacques (scallops), gambas, truite (trout), etc, etc. Yes, I worked the fish station. There's some karma out there that knows this is my preferred post. High volume, high turnover of stock, high level of intense activity. Fast and furious. Actually, I got a charge out of doing it.

Fourth, I worked in a kitchen that had a great ambiance. Dare I say that there were smiles on their faces. Even the chef-second was smiling & laughing (he's the guy in charge when the real chef is away, on vacation as was the case). He was jolly for pete's sake. I never met a jolly "chef" before. I thought they were all grumpy, stressed out or above the fray (I'm talking Paris here) . Despite the intense work load, everyone at this restaurant was easy-going and at ease.

Oh, and here’s another first: I heard several compliments throughout the services. "Bravo" whenever I brought a plate to le pass (the counter where the servers pick them up). "Très bien'" often at the poste de travail (station). And, at the end of service the chef said “Bonne service tout le monde" (Good service everyone). And I even received a few extra kind words, “beautiful” work, bravo, and merci. Can you believe it?

With the weekend behind me, working those crazy hours of coupure (double shift), I felt total exhaustion like I hadn't felt in a while. But it’s a good tired - when done in short spurts. I would gladly go back there. Interestingly enough, for the high workload involved in preparing the mis en place and producing the service, I actually worked less hours per day than I had last year. I would even describe the hours as reasonable. For example, we finished at 11:15 on a Saturday night. And we started at 9:30 am each morning... So there's hope on the horizon - a kitchen with good esprit, good team, good hours, can exist.

Any guesses as to where I worked this weekend? OK, I'll just tell you: Le Chalet des Iles. Located on the Lac Inferieure in the Bois de Bologne (Lac Inferieure, curiously enough, is not "inferior" at all - it is the bigger of two lakes and it actually sits on top of its small neighboring "pond"...yet another example of the french logic! I don't try to figure it out.)

Address:
Le Chalet des Iles
Lac Inferieur du Bois de Boulogne
Porte de la Muette 75016

White Rice with Lentils and Golden Raisins

Another one-pot recipe with a moderate list of ingredients, an extremely simple procedure (you don't need to cut or chop anything!) and a decent cooking time (less than 1 hour).  I would recommend making the full batch, which makes 2 servings, because you can either make it for you and someone else or you can store the remainder in the fridge, as it will hold for 3 to 4 days.  If you don't want to make extra this recipe can be halved extremely easily.

I've been studying (and eating) quite a bit of north-african cuisine recently, and I absolutely love the fact that most of their meals, especially their divine tajines (meat or vegetable stews), combine sweet and salty flavors in a way that isn't too overwhelming or overpowering in one of either directions.  I'm always a fan of sweets (how can you not be in Paris, a city which possesses sweets that are mouth-watering upon both sight and taste?) and when sweet flavors are paired well in savory dishes it adds a great touch.

So my recent eating and reading excursions are certainly what led to the creation of this recipe.  I can't deny that peering over the saucepan this morning playing around with spices may have been one of the highlights of my day (second only to video chatting with my sister).  Some things you can add or change around in the recipe:  add fewer or more raisins upon your liking, pine nuts, roughly chopped nuts (almonds, walnuts, or hazelnuts), or fresh or dried herbs such as parsley and oregano.  As you see in the pictures, I added some chopped fresh parsley to my version, and topped it with pine nuts. 

Bon appétit!

White Rice with Lentils and Golden Raisins - makes 2 servings

1 tbsp olive oil
1/2-cup (220 grams) lentilles de puy (french green lentils, but any other type works fine too)
1 pinch each of turmeric, cumin, cinnamon, and ground coriander
1 cup (450 grams) white rice, such as basmati, or any other long-grain rice
1-2 handfuls golden raisins
1 tbsp honey

1.  Wash and drain the rice, set aside; wash and drain the lentils (try to dry them with paper towels as thoroughly as possible).
2.  Heat the olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat.  Add the lentils and spices, and sautée until spices are fragrant, about 1 minute.
3.  Add 1 cup water to the saucepan, and simmer until lentils have softened slightly, about 15-20 minutes.
4.  Add rice, raisins, honey, and 2 cups water to saucepan.  Sprinkle with 2 tsp salt and a pinch of pepper; stir to combine.  Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook, covered, until rice is softened, about 30 minutes.
5.  Serve with fresh herbs (and a fat juicy steak if you're so inclined).

Tasty Bites

Happy Friday! Here are some links to posts and a sneak peek at next week.

Have you been reading my posts over at GlamDish? You really should. I'm posting four days a week and in addition to recipes and hot tips, there are also contests! Visit today for a chance to win a special Haagen-Dazs delivery. Next week, you might win a copy of The Shameless Carnivore.

I am now on Twitter. Feel free to follow me.

On Wednesday over at Bay Area Bites I reviewed two new books, The New Steak and Recipe of the Week: Burgers. Which is my favorite? Suffice it to say my other half has already bookmarked Lamb Burgers with Hoisin and Scallions, Caramelized Onion and Chickpea Burgers and Dijon Tuna Burgers.

Next week I will share the dish I am obsessed with at the moment and two favorite places to order it.

I'll also tell you about a couple of local spots that serve fabulous and well-priced small plates, until 1 am!

Thanks again to all my readers for your patience as I get back up to speed. Your kind wishes and prayers have meant a lot to me. The good news is that everyone in my family is doing well and life is getting back to normal.

Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies

Oh little blog, how I've been neglecting you. My dog can relate. So can all of my friends, my family, my plants if I had any. Good thing I don't own fish. My books, on the other hand, not very ignored. Stupid books. But there's just a little over one month left to go, which is both too much and too little, until my Oral Exams (seems like that should be capitalized). And then I'll really be back, and probably with a vengeance since I've had it to here with frozen dinners and cereal. In fact, I've had it past here.

So tonight, I'd like to imagine I'm back in the forth grade again. Incredibly awkward, not very good at making friends, too shy, too quiet. Those cute fourth grade boys never talk to me. Except one time, which I remember distinctly, when the second coolest boy in school told me he loved my mother's oatmeal cookies. Oh heck yea.

My mom recently made a batch and sent them to me, along with the recipe to share with all of you. So if you have your eye on the second coolest boy, these will do the trick. Promise.

Too Cool for School Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies

1 cup butter

2 cups sugar

2 large eggs

1 tablespoon molasses

2 teaspoons vanilla

2 cups flour

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups quick cooking oats

2/3 cup raisins (don't be that person who skips the raisons)

1 cup chopped nuts (walnuts, pecans, you know what to do)

1/2 cups chocolate chips

Preheat the oven to 350 F and set out an ungreased cookie sheet

Cream together the butter and sugar by beating until pale and fluffy with an electric beater.

Add the eggs, the molasses and the vanilla to the butter and stir in.

In a separate bowl, combine the flour, cinnamon, baking soda and salt, and gradually add this mixture to the butter mixture.

Stir in the oats, raisins, nuts and chocolate and drop by teaspoonful onto the cookie sheet. These guys like to spread, so leave plenty of room.

Bake for 10-12 minutes until lightly browned and delicious.

The French Café

Ah, the French café.
A quintessential icon of French life and culture.

When we first moved to France I envisioned spending many uninterrupted hours in our local café, sipping a morning café crème or an early evening apéro while writing, reading and watching the world go by.

It didn't take me long to discover that, other then when I plan to meet friends there, one of the best ways to enjoy the French café is anonymously.

When you live in rural France, you get to know your neighbors. Whether you like it or not.
Eventually you find that when you stop into your local café for a drink and some solitary reading or writing time, an acquaintance or three will stop by to chat or to plop themselves down in the chair opposite you and order a drink, all the while ignoring the fact that you had your nose buried in a good book or were contentedly writing away in your notebook.


I know that the café is a social place, I get that. And I love going to the café to meet friends for a drink.
However, I also really enjoy sitting on my own, not having to talk or socialize.

It is times like these when I miss the anonymity of living in a city.

Cute Food, Japanese Style

The only thing I can say in my defense, is that after two weeks of being bombarded with that special type of Japanese cuteness known as "kawaii" I had a momentary lapse.

It was during a trip through the temple of all things adorable, the toy store Kiddy Land, in the trendy shopping area of Ometosando in Harajuku, Tokyo, that I purchased not one, but two little sets of plastic food that would best fit in a dollhouse. Sigh. Yes, even food is cute in Japan. Can you blame me for wanting to go back?

OTT "Over The Top" Oatmeal Cookies:Recipe

Who doesn't like cookies? It's hard to imagine growing up without them. They were a staple in my lunch bag year in, year out. But in Italy cookies are less of an everyday thing and more of a fancy treat to be served to guests with dessert wine after dinner. Elegant cookies are found at all good Italian bakeries and are made in the home during holidays. But the cookie jar filled with homemade cookies for the whole family to snack on is not an Italian tradition. When I lived there, American style chocolate chip cookies were unheard of. I made them for the family I was living with and they were horrified to hear that Americans would eat them with milk. Of course they also had a hard time understanding why we would eat french fries with Coke either.

You hear a lot about how simple food is often the best, but the opposite is true when it comes to cookies. Dare I say it? Lately I am actually bored by plain old chocolate chip cookies. Even with chocolate chips AND nuts, there just isn't enough going on for me. Give me some biscotti with nuts and a kick of crystalized ginger or a ranger cookie with coconut, nuts, oats and cereal. Even shortbread cookies need some extra punch of spice or citrus rind, something to excite the senses.

A few nights ago the house was so cold that I needed to find a recipe that would allow me to use the oven. I love peanut butter cookies, but it's the one kind of cookie that Lee won't eat, so I made oatmeal cookies instead. I found a wonderful recipe that uses a combination of brown sugar, white sugar and maple syrup to make a chewy and crisp cookie. While the recipe calls for nuts and chocolate chips I also added dried cranberries because as they say, sometimes too much of a good thing can be wonderful. Feel free to leave out the chocolate chips, nuts or cranberries if this recipe makes your head spin.

OTT (over the top) Oatmeal Cookies

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
2 cups old-fashioned oats
1/2 cup halved walnuts
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup lightly packed light brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg
1/4 cup maple syrup
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2-3/4 cup semisweet chocolate chips
1 cup dried cranberries

Preheat to 350 degrees F.
In a medium bowl, mix the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, oats, and walnuts together.
In a food processor with a plastic blade, beat the butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar together scraping the sides, until blended. Add the egg and continue to process until smooth and barely fluffy. With processor running drizzle in the maple syrup, and vanilla. Dump the mixture into the flour-oatmeal mixture. Blend just to combine, then mix in the chocolate chips and dried cranberries.
Using a tablespoon, drop balls of dough onto a nonstick or parchment-lined cookie sheet about 3 inches apart. With moist fingers, flatten the cookies a little. Bake for 8-10 minutes. The cookies are done when they are slightly brown on top. Cool on a rack.

Enjoy!

Combine-and-boil

Now, I know I’m really pushing the limits here, with less than 72 hours until the big day, but I just can’t let another year sneak by without sharing one of my favorite parts of the Thanksgiving spread. I hope I’ve caught you in time. Hurry - before you read another word, jot this on your grocery list:apricot preserveswhite distilled vinegarraspberry preservesground clovesGrand Marnierfresh

Fun French Food Festivals

Another weekend, another food festival. This time the Côte d’Azur celebrated with the Fête de l’Olivier at Cagnes-sur-Mer. Saturday’s festivities included an olive oil tasting bar, a farmer’s market, “workshops” for children, and a déjeuner gastronomique (scroll down this link for photos and the menu.)

Dream job: travelling around France every weekend to report on these festivals!

Tapas to Meze:Cookbook

I'm sure I used to like the winter. I used to vacation in the mountains and alps. I used to go skiing. I used to spend hours gazing at the falling snow, sipping hot chocolate from a cozy lodge. But not anymore. The minute it gets cold or begins to rain or heaven forbid both, I start whining. Home for less than two weeks and I long to be back in Mexico enjoying the warmth and the sunshine.

One way to overcome the winter blues is to transport yourself to the Mediterranean and short of plane tickets, I can think of no better way than by reading Joanne Weir's latest cookbook out in paperback, From Tapas to Meze.

There are several reasons to love this book. One is the glorious photographs. Another is the delightful introductions to each recipe. Weir shares secrets and stories with her readers, inviting them into her confidence. But the main reason to love this book is the recipes themselves, all 160 of them.

This book covers all kinds of recipes from countries like Spain, Italy, Greece, and even the Middle East and North Africa. Whether you are looking for party food, appetizers or snacks, this book will fit the bill. In an era when everyone seems to be looking for a healthier way to eat, this is one option that doesn't scream "diet".

Another bonus to this book is that it is not limited to summertime fare. Recipes that will give you a sunny burst of flavor this winter include an Orange, Beet and Walnut Salad, a Risotto with Red Wine and even Tunisian Brik, a phyllo pastry filled with potatoes, scallions and fried egg.

Mangos, Mangos, Mangos!

Imagine a parade of brightly colored fruity concotions--drinks, puddings and the like in vibrant green, orange, red and yellow. Welcome to the world of healthy desserts. Welcome to the Hong Kong based Creations Dessert House. This chain of shops has expanded from Hong Kong to Taiwan, Singapore and now the U.S.

The menu extolls the virtues of various ingredients including the lovely sounding bird's nest and crystal snow. Bird's nest is of course a delicacy made of gelatinous bird spit. And crystal snow is made from frog fat. I swear, I am not making this up. Each is touted as a healthy and nutritious ingredient.

Tastiest of all are probably the fruit desserts, many of which prominently feature mango. Coming into the shop for the first time last week, I saw a stack of no fewer than twenty crates of mangos! The mangos I saw seemed to be a flattish yellow variety. Other than mangos, mangos everywhere, the decor was decidedly modern and youthful with oversized chairs, tiny tables and an interior color palette of black and red.

I chose a dessert which was mango pudding, mango ice cream, and chunks of fresh mango floating in--you guessed it, mango puree. It was bursting with juicy, tangy, mango flavors. In addition to being delicious mangos are packed with vitamins A, C and D and are also high in potassium and fiber so you can really feel good about eating them. Mangos also contain tryptophan and several enzymes that aid in digestion.

The Creations web site claims that more mangoes are eaten fresh all over the world more than any other fruit. Often referred to as the "tropical king of fruit" the mango tree is considered sacred in India where the fruit comes from originally. Mangos are grown in Asia, Latin America and here in the United States. Available practically year round, you can indulge in all the mango-ness you like at Creations Dessert House, the prices range from two to about five dollars for each dessert. Unless of course you want to try the crystal snow...

Creations Dessert House
5217 Geary Blvd.
San Francisco
Open from noon-midnight, everyday
415.668.8812

All About Prickly Pear

The first time I had prickly pear fruit was in a Mexican popsicle or "paleta". It was a bright cherry red and sweet as could be. Mexican summers can get so hot you need something, anything ice cold, never mind what the flavor is. But I think that was the first and last time I tried prickly pear fruit.



So what do you do with prickly pear fruit? Until today, I honestly didn't know. Not that not knowing stopped me from buying some. When I find something unusual at the grocery store I often feel compelled to give it a go. Prickly pear fruit is in season from spring until fall, but I only just noticed them in the store.



Prickly pear fruit is also known as tunas, barbary fig, Indian fig or Indian pear. The flesh can be yellowish green in addition to the beet red color mine were. They are popular in Latin America and Italy and also grown in Australia and Africa. A great source of vitamin C, each cactus fruit contains approximately 50% of the vitamin C found in an orange (22 to 30 mg. per 100g serving). Soft inside, packed with hard little seeds, flavor-wise they are exceptionally bland. Which is surprising given how brightly colored they are, you just expect them to be flavorful. But they are awfully pretty.



After hacking into one and having a nibble, I decided to toss it in the blender with a little water. I then strained out the seeds and mixed the pulp and juice with half a lemon, two teaspoons of sugar and some sparkling water to make a kind of fizzy prickly pear lemonade. It was quite delicious and made a nice fancy drink. If you are looking for a mildly exotic beverage, this could fit the bill. My curiosity satisfied, I think I may wait until I'm back in Mexico to try them again. Then again they could make an interesting margarita...

A weekend in Amsterdam (1) : CULTURE

A long weekend in Amsterdam is always a treat! The canals, the bikes, the size of the city are quite a change from the pace of a larger city like Paris, where I live. It's only a little over 4 hours from Paris with Thalys, the fast train.
I made a long tour in the city last Friday - in spite of the rain. I started by taking a tram to go to the Concertgebouw, to get the season's program - because yes, I am planning to come back. Trams are an alternative means of transportation to the bike, the real "classic". The Dutch do not mind the rain and do not use "bike capes" to cover themselves when it rains! Trams are also definitely better if you plan to spend the day touring.From there, across the street, I had a view of the Museum Plein and its impressive modern building that houses the Van Gogh Museum, the largest collection of paintings by this artist. If you plan your trip ahead, book your tickets on line, you'll avoid a loooong waiting line. Entrance ticket with the audio tour is 16.50 Euros.

It's a short walk to the Rijksmuseum, the museum of art and history, partly closed for restoration works, but still displaying an impressive collection of paintings. Here again, you can buy and print your e-ticket on line.

I had a quick lunch before continuing, nicely presented: a piece of brown bread, and an individual pan with a slice of ham, a slice of melted cheese, an egg, and two slices of tomato.

Across another canal, I walked on to the street of antique shops. My eye was instantly caught by the collections of Asian antiques, a favorite having lived so long in Asia myself. But I also love cows, and found this 17 C pair at a specialist in antique Delft porcelain simply delightful. Though the price tag was a shock: 13,500 Euros! I'll pass - but aren't they beautiful.
From there it is a short walk to the flower market where tulips are everywhere. 50 tulips for 10 Euros ... I couldn't resist and bought a bunch of white ones, plus plenty of bulbs for my Parisian deck.

By then it was time to head back home ... I was pretty tired I must say!On my way home I bought mussels for our evening meal! Miam! I fried a shallot in olive oil, added 1/4 cup of chopped parsley, a glass of dry white wine, and the mussels. Cover and let open over low heat. Toss them now and then. When they are open, serve immediately.

Favorite things: Putumayo Presents: Acoustic France

The only time I ever got a speeding ticket I was listening to music on the radio. Not long after I switched to NPR and have stayed out of trouble ever since. While driving and music are subjects that have been explored in detail, lately I've been thinking about food and music, specifically music in the kitchen and music in the dining room.

On my mother's birthday last month my family and I ate at Ad Hoc in Yountville. Dinner was delicious, though nothing earth shattering. But the music was way too loud and like that day I got pulled over, it distracted me. In the dining room I like background music. If I notice it, that's a good sign it's too loud. Meals are a precious time for me to catch up and connect with my dining companions, not to rock out. If you are a chef and want the music loud, that's fine, just please, keep it in the kitchen.

Speaking of kitchen music, I just love the new Putumayo Presents:Acoustic France CD. It's filled with jazzy, catchy, happy French songs with lush and tasty vocals and influences from as far away as Latin America. But here's the catch, because the lyrics are in French, I find it less distracting than most music. I can't promise listening to it will help you to cook as brilliantly as Jacques, but during this period of intense recipe development it's helping me to pay strict attention to detail and keep my wits about me! Of course it also doesn't hurt that in the liner notes there is a recipe for Banana and Lime Sole from famed French chef Michel Troisgros. That actually might help your cooking.

So what about you? Any preferences for music, in the kitchen and the dining room? I'd love to hear what you like or conversely, what you don't.

Nuoc Mam -- Vietnamese Fish Sauce

www.flickr.com

Fish sauce. It's such an unfortunate name. If I was renaming it I'd call it "essence of the sea". But even that falls short. It's composed of just fish, salt and water. In Vietnam fresh fish, often anchovies, are fermented along with sea salt in huge wooden barrels and the resulting liquid is somehow not as salty as soy sauce but clean and fresh tasting with the essence of fish but with no "fishy" flavor. The taste is pure umami, that fifth flavor of savoriness. Visiting fish sauce factories in Phu Quoc, I was struck by the scent of the sauce which was sweet, salty and very pungent but not unpleasant.

Some of the most desirable fish sauce is made on the island of Phu Quoc (and also Phan Thiet). The first extraction called nhi is poured off after many months. More salt and water (sea water) is added and it continues to ferment. This process is repeated several times over the course of a year. The first batch is the best quality and contains the most protein. Following batches have less. The protein levels in these sauces range from 25-40%.

Like using anchovy paste, a splash of nuoc mam rounds out flavor without adding a fishy taste. It is used in Vietnamese recipes and as a dipping sauce when mixed with chiles, sugar, and lime juice. I found just a teaspoon or two in a bowl of pho makes all the difference. A good guide to purchasing Vietnamese style fish sauce in the US is available online at Viet World Kitchen.

FOOD + VIETNEM

La Gastronomia Italiana (3)

This is the place in Tremezzo where we had most of our meals. Very near where we were staying, at the Piazza Roma, by the Lago itslef, a small ristorante without a name, catering good home made style food for Italians - and some tourists, like us!

The menu was always tempting - and so were the prices! And the last days we were in Tremezzo, I opted for the full fare to feel more Italian! I had the antipasto de la casa, an abundant plate of locals cold cuts (bresaola, parama ham, coppa) with a side dish of vegetables (pictured above): pickeled onions, artichokes, and beans. All delicious. I had this and dessert as a full meal other days! Among the many primi piatti, mostly different types of pasta, I chose the simple fresh tagliatelle al pomodoro (fresh tomato sauce) with a leave of fresh basil. We had the pesce del lago as secondi piatti: a grilled lake di Como fish the size of a very large sardine. Are you already feeling you had too much? No? Good, because then comes the cheese: a local mountain cow milk cheese (aged about three months). And as you have guessed, I am a fan of Tiramisu, so I gave it a try! It was too sunny outside and the dining room in the first floor, a cozy room with only five tables, had a splendid view! What agreat Friday! I had only mineral water, wine does not do me any good for lunch when it's hot.

Pâte de Fruit Pomme au Calvados

Les Confiseries (confectionaries) have been around for some 500 years, according to The National Syndicate of Confiseries. Confectionaries today in France include all of the usual suspects: suckers, caramels, marshmallows, chewing gum, marzipan, nougat, etc. There's also something called a pâte de fruit. The literal translation is "dough from fruit", yet another example where the literal translation gets you nowhere. So what is it? The closest thing I can relate it to is a gum drop, but it's not at all like a gum drop! Gum drops are cone-shaped, although I'm not very concerned about its shape. More importantly, gum drops tend to be very sugary, and to my knowledge are made with artificial fruit....and sometimes spices. At least this is what I remember from all my trick-or-treating days as a child.

A better translation for pâte de fruit is simply fruit jelly squares. They are firm but soft in texture, and have a very rich, intensely fruity taste. They are satisfyingly sweet without being overly sugary, if you know what I mean. And yet, they are rolled in sugar. Go figure. (Another french paradox.)

It's good to understand that they have their own appellation (codification). The name "pâte de" followed by the name of the fruit, is reserved for those pâte de fruits in which 100% of the fruit pulp used comes from the fruit cited in its name. And just to add a tiny bit of confusion, this equals at least 50% of fruit in the finished product (you'll see why later in the recipe). As an example, "pâte de pomme" (apple jelly square) is made with 100% apple pulp. A pâte de coing is made with 100% coing (quince), etc, etc. The second classification is identified by "pâte de fruit" followed by the name of the fruit. This indicates it is a pâte de fruit in which at least 25% of the fruit pulp used comes from the name of the fruit (which then becomes at least 12.5% in the finished product). Examples of this category include pâte de fruit au pomme, or pâte de fruit à coing. Or simply pâte de fruit pomme. The 3rd classification is called "pâte de fruit aromatisée à" followed by the name of fruit (a pâte de fruit with the flavor of...). The label can also use such words as pâte de fruit goût à or saveur à - all of these things are indicating that there's very little real fruit in the candy. Maybe this category is more like the gum drop afterall...

All of this might sound a little too complicated and maybe it's easier reading if you understand the language, but please bear with me. Such things are quite important in France. The confectionary professionals voluntarily codified it in 1965 to maintain standards of quality and tradition. I'm all for that, given the variation in how these confections can be made - something I hadn't realized until I started doing it myself.

But, what about making a pâte de fruit? I've only tried two times now. The first time was with fresh rasberries & they failed. I ended up with a really nice rasberry jam, but not a pâte de fruit. Yesterday they turned out perfectly, using apples this time. I used two different recipes - maybe this is why. Or maybe I just got lucky. Who knows. Regardless, from now own, I'll stick to yesterday's recipe:

Pate de fruit à Pomme
(Recipe thanks to Les Vergers Boiron)

500 g apple purée
50 g sugar + 13 g pectin jaune in powder form
508 g sugar
9 g tartaric acid solution
110 g glucose
10 g Calvados (optional)
extra sugar for coating

Steps:

1. Make a tartaric acid solution (50:50 tartaric acid to water) and heat until dissolved. Set aside. You can also use fresh lemon juice instead of tartaric acid (a natural acid found in certain plants such as grape, banana or tamarind and acts as an antioxidant while also adding a slightly sour taste).
   
2. Mix pectin jaune (13g) with sugar (50g). Set aside.
   
3. Finish the rest of your mis-en-place: weigh ingredients (all except glucose); place a metal frame on a cookie sheet with parchment paper underneath (for pouring finished product into at the end); Find heat resistant spatula and wisk, and place next to stove in a bowl of water; Have thermometer ready to go.
   
4. Heat fruit purée on stove top until hot. Sprinkle in the pectin/sugar mixture. Bring to boil for 2-3 minutes, stirring.
   
5. Add sugar in 3-4 steps, making sure it's well dissolved before adding the next addition.
   
6. Add glucose. I removed the pan from the heat & placed it on a scale & weighed the glucose directly in. It's too thick otherwise..a consistency like corn syrup.
   
7. Cook until the temperature reaches 107°C. This takes a good 10 minutes or so, so don't worry about measuring the temperature in the beginning. Do be worried about stirring or whisking constantly because this is the stage it can burn. It's going to get all hot & bubbly & reduce very slightly. Careful with this step....you're working with molten hot sugar.... Keep whisking. Remove from heat once you reach 107°C.
   
8. Add the tartaric acid solution & wisk.
9. Add the Calvados & wisk. Watch out - it can briefly bubble violently.
   
10. Immediately pour into metal frame. You don't have a whole lot of time here; it starts to thicken immediately. Let rest 2-3 hours uncovered.
    
11. Cut into squares, or whatever shape you want. Fill bowl with sugar. Toss in a bunch of fruit gels. Coat all sides. Sugar coating: optional but definitely traditional.
    

Can be stored a very long time. I read it's OK for 6 - 9 months. All that sugar helps preserve them. In fact, pâte de fruits were originally created as a way to preserve harvested fruit.

One question you might have is where to get the fruit purée. I made my own with apples. You can also buy fruit purées by the jar at nearby store, G. Detou. Or, you can buy them frozen. At Ecole Ferrandi, we used the brand Les Vergers Boiron - that's what most professionals use and what I would use if I could buy it without a professional's license. (Hopefully soon...)

You might also wonder if you need to use pectin if you make a purée with a pectin-rich fruit (such as apple or pear). I would say yes, if you want to get the right texture of a pâte de fruit. Otherwise, you might end up with a form of jelly or something that doesn't solidify like it should. Back in the middle ages when they couldn't buy pectin off the shelf, they surely figured out the right proportions to get it right...but still...I say use it!

On the subject of pectin, there are different types of pectins. Here in France, "pectin jaune" is the one specifically used to make pâte de fruits and other confiseries. In the US, I think it's called apple pectin. But, be sure to use the right kind!

Pâte de fruit pomme au Calvados de Normandie....a perfect mignardise. Another french treat worth understanding and trying.

Creamy Broccoli Soup

Ingredients: Broccoli, Onion, Chicken Broth, Heavy Cream, Gruyere Cheese

I originally started this blog because, after living in New York last year and eating take-out a little too often, and after getting much more interested in cooking and excited about the amazing food available in Paris, I realized how rewarding it is to be able to make meals for myself.  I moved to Paris with the hope of showing others how simple it is to cook good food.

So I created this blog because I want people like me, who are maybe intimidated by cooking or think it's easier to just order in, to try their hand at some simple yet delicious recipes.  I really believe cooking for yourself is one of the best things you can do for your health, and I would be thrilled to find that people are starting to cook based on the recipes I provide here!

With that said, I'm starting a series of recipes which will each include only five ingredients or less.  They will still be yummy, but also cost- and time-efficient.  Cooking is not difficult and can be really rewarding when you find out what delicous food you can make!

I'm starting this journey with broccoli and gruyere soup, which I was happily dreaming about during my trip from Boston back to Paris.  Broccoli soup brings back memories of curling up with a big bowl, a good hunk of bread, and enjoying a perfect winter meal.  The earthy, tangy flavor of broccoli becomes milder and pairs so well with cream and cheese, which is why this soup doesn't need a lot to make it fantastic.  So enjoy, and if you have any suggestions or ideas, please feel free to share them with me - I'm always looking for new inspiration!!

Creamy Broccoli Soup - serves 1

10 oz broccoli, cut into small florets

1/4 onion, chopped (you can save the rest for another use in the fridge)

1 1/2 cup chicken broth

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup grated gruyere cheese

1.  Bring the chicken broth to a boil in a small saucepan; add the broccoli and onion, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes.

2.  Let the vegetables cool for a moment, then puree in a blender.

3.  Return the puree back to the saucepan, put the heat on medium-low, and add the cream. 

4.  Once it's hot, whisk the cheese in slowly, until fully combined.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Enjoy!! So tomorrow I'm thinking of making bacon-wrapped monkfish (again with 5 ingredients or less) - thoughts?  Any suggestions?

Additionally, I'd like to try my hand at recipes that take 10 minutes or less to make (once this series is over) - please let me know if there are other recipe guidelines you think are worth trying!

Cocktail d'agrumes, crevettes, et avocat

This can be roughly translated as "Shrimp & Citrus Cocktail with Avocado". It's something that Chef Laurent Chareau presented at the Deauville Omnivore Food Festival last month (see photo at bottom of post). As he was preparing it, my mouth was salivating....honestly, it was uncontrollable. I mean, these are the tastes & flavors that I absolutely adore! I couldn't wait to try this one at home. He didn't present a specific recipe as much as simply throwing together the dish. The concept is very simple, as you'll see. Here's my interpretation:

Shrimp & Citrus Salad with Purée of Avocado
(inspired by Chef Chareau; interpreted by me)
4 servings

Salade Part
2 grapefruit
1 navel orange
1 blood orange
1 lemon
16 decent sized shrimp
1/4 small red onion, diced finely
fresh herbs (flat parsley, cilantro or mint) - chopped

Section the citrus so you have no skin or pith. (Resist the urge at this point to eat all of your hard work....the oranges & grapefruit sections will look and smell sooo good.) Leave the orange & grapefruit sections whole, but dice the lemon. Peel & de-vein the shrimp. Cook the shrimp if raw (BBQ anyone?). We are BBQ-deprived here, so we buy them already cooked at the local outdoor market. They are super fresh & very good. Put the citrus sections & shrimp in a bowl. Reserve the extra juice, or just drink it while nobody's looking! Add the red onion & fresh herb. (I'm especially partial to the mint....) Add vinaigrette just before serving - enough to generously coat all the fruit & shrimp.

Vinaigrette:
olive oil
vinegar (balsamic) or lime juice
ginger, lemongrass, garlic clove (optional)
salt
soy sauce (optional)

Put your preferred acidic liquid in bowl (vinegar or lime/lemon juice/citrus juice). Add salt. Add chunk of peeled ginger, lemongrass & garlic clove to infuse. Wisk in olive oil (use 3-4 times more olive oil to the quantity of vinegar you have.) Filter solids before using. Make sure it's got a good acidic tone. Throw in some soy sauce if you like. (I did.) Vinaigrette should be a somewhat thick consistency.

Avocado Purée part
3 medium avocados
lemon juice
cumin, tabasco sauce, salt & pepper (piment d'espelette preferably) - to taste

Remove pits & pulp from avocados. Squeeze lemon juice over the avocado to help prevent it from darkening in color. Use a hand blender & mix until the consistency is smooth. Season as you like with tabasco sauce, cumin & salt/pepper. (Careful with the cumin....not too much otherwise it can overpower all the other flavors, in my opinion). Resist the urge to eat spoonfuls of the guacamole....it's so tempting, but you're almost there. Only the assembly left!

Assembly:

1. In a martini glass or other glass - put layer of shrimp/citrus salad on the bottom. Season. Add layer of avocado purée. Sprinkle with piment d'esplette or spicy/smoked paprika.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
2. Decorate the avocado purée with anything crispy. I used fried carrots in the "martini glass" and then I tried roasted hazelnuts. Chef Chareau used rice crispies fried in saffron butter and he also used roughly chopped roasted cashews (two different dishes). I would love to try the rice crispies...doesn't that sound kind of funny?
   
   
   
3. Instead of a martini glass, you can use a regular plate (shown here with hazelnut topping):

Conclusion:

This is every bit as good as it sounded. In fact, Eric & I each had one as an entrée (first course) last night, and then proceeded to immediately assemble a 2nd one instead of refrigerating the left-overs! One was plenty-enough.....we just couldn't help ourselves. This is a wonderfully, light-tasting first course. The acidity from the citrus mixed with the sweetness of the shrimp mixed with the richness of the ever-so-slightly seasoned avocado....is a great blending of flavors. I will make this again and again....with pleasure. Thanks Chef for sharing this great idea with us.

OFF4 - 2009 Chef Chareau Demo

Chef Chareau's Cocktail d'agrumes, crevettes & Avocat

:/dma