Twelve Days Until Milan...

and I need some suggestions!

Have you ever been? Do you have any recommendations?

We're staying in the center and have four days to experience the city. I've booked tickets for Leonardo's Last Supper, but that is our only planned event.
I'm traveling with non foodie/ happy-to-eat-a-ham-and-cheese-sandwich-every-day-of-his-life friend. (it was a difficult relationship at first, but I've gotten over this strange, alien personal trait) But he is happy to try new things.

When I travel, I love to wander around and discover little, hidden places and sit in cafés and watch people.
What are the great people watching piazzas of Milan? Any cheap and cheerful trattorias that aren't too far off the beaten path? Any specialty food shops I should check out that might not be in guidebooks? Any websites about Milan that I should check out?

Grazie in advance!

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