Late September, sung in the key of salad
Okay, so, remember what I wrote about summer? All my gushing and carrying on, with a scoop of sorbet on top? Well, scratch that. I've changed my mind. Call me fickle, but now I’m feeling sort of smitten with fall. Oh sweet, sweet, slate-colored autumn, I think I love you. For now, at least.Only a few weeks ago, when August gave way to September, I wasn’t sure that I was ready. With the exception
Ninja Professional Blender Review
I was curious to try out the Ninja blender and to see how it compared to my VitaMix. The VitaMix is tremendously powerful and makes the smoothest creamiest purees, sauces and smoothies. While I love it, I don't love the price, which is around $500.
DESIGN
I like the design of the Ninja. It looks sleek and similar to the VitaMix. The pitcher locks easily onto the base and has a very firm fitting lid with a spout to make adding ingredients or pouring easy. There are only a few buttons and they are all enclosed so it's easy to clean. The pitcher is lightweight and BPA free. The biggest difference in the construction is the blade configuration, there are 6 blades that run up the stem in the Ninja. They are very sharp!
PERFORMANCE
So how did the Ninja do? I did two tests. In one I made a smoothie with milk, ice and a frozen banana. At least, I tried to make a smoothie. What I got was a smooth drink with little chips of ice. No matter how long I blended on high, I could not get the little chips to become smooth. This is something a regular blender also has a problem doing but my VitaMix does very well.
I also tried blending some very fibrous cooked sugar snap peas. The VitaMix blended them into a thin green puree with no chunks or lumps. The Ninja did break up the peas but the result was not liquid, but more like a medium thick puree. I could see each little bit of material broken into what looked like tiny squares, rather than microscopic bits.
RECOMMENDATION
I didn't feel my tests were really enough so I asked my parents to compare the Ninja to the conventional blender they have at home. They were able to turn ice cubes into snow in seconds and found it to be a significant improvement over their regular blender, an Osterizer. All in all, the Ninja does a WAY better job than most conventional blenders. So if you are looking for something significantly more powerful, the Ninja is a good choice. But if you are looking for something as powerful as the VitaMix, this is not it.
COMPARISON
Here is a rough breakdown of the power and price of each:
Osterizer=500 watts $20-$80 depending upon the model
Ninja=1000 watts about $99
VitaMix=1380 watts about $500, depending upon the model
Which blender do you have? Which model do you think is worth the price?
The important parts
Hello again.I sincerely hope that all our talk of chocolate chip cookies hasn’t left you in a sugar coma, because I come to you today with more sweets. Some of you are going to hate me for this, I know, but I had to. I didn’t have a choice. This past Saturday evening, a reader of this website sent me an e-mail with the subject line, “Looking for Good Pie Crust.” And get this: I happened to
Cookbooks by Friends & Bloggers I Know
This year a number of my friends and fellow bloggers wrote books. I will not pretend to be unbiased when it comes to these books. I wish the authors much success! Here is a list of the books that I got a chance to review and enjoy:
L.A.'s Original Farmers Market Cookbook
My friend JoAnn Cianciulli wrote this terrific book with profiles of the vendors at the market at 3rd and Fairfax. Having visited the market I fell in love with the book. JoAnn is a fabulous storyteller and having written several cookbooks she knows how recipes work. Another reason why I love this book is the variety of recipes. There are dishes from all over the world yet the ingredients and instructions are very straightforward. I've made the crepes and the spiced nuts, both are winners. You could cook out of this book for a year and never get bored, you'll find everything from Seafood Gumbo, Kalbi, Tuna Sambal, Leek and Goat Cheese Quiche, to Almond Horns and Banana Cream Pie. If you love street food, this cookbook will really appeal to you.
Soaked, Slathered and Seasoned
I feel very fortunate to have gotten to know Elizabeth Karmel this year. She is smart, funny and a very talented cook and restaurateur. I am not much of griller, but I turned to her book time and again for marinades and sauces. You will never buy a premade spice rub after trying her recipes for Hot & Sticky BBQ Rub or her Original Three Ingredient Rub. I also learned the proportions for making excellent compound butter from her book. With or without a grill, the vinaigrettes, pestos, butters, rubs, sauces, marinades and more make this a super handy reference.
Asian Dumplings
I am extremely lucky to live in San Francisco where I can get an staggering array of Asian dumplings, morning noon or night. A good thing, because I sometimes think I could subsist only on noodles and dumplings. Andrea Nguyen has written a book that will demystify making dumplings at home. I feel terrible for not yet having tried any of her recipes, but if you live in a place where Asian dumplings are not readily available, this will be your go to guide to making them. And really, wouldn't it be fun to throw a dumpling party and have a bunch of friends over to make them, eat them and take some home?
Tequila
In the course of my writing for Cheers magazine I have talked to quite a few bartenders and beverage managers and they have all told me that tequila is where it's at. Vodka is passe, gin is well established, but tequila has a range of styles and flavor profiles that don't only get bartenders excited but cooks like me and seasoned chefs like my friend Joanne Weir. Joanne gathered cocktail recipes both new and classic from bartenders all over the country. In the second half of the book she shares recipes for nibbles that include tequila and can be paired with tequila. She shares the brands she loves, how tequila is made and describes the different styles of tequila. This book paired with a bottle of tequila would make a fantastic gift. Or just buy it for yourself and become a tequila connoisseur.
Modern Spice
Author Monica Bhide is my Twitter friend. I have never met her in person, but I feel like she is my friend, in part because she writes wonderful personal stories with her recipes. They are stories about friends and family that will touch your heart. Her book is not a memoir but it almost feels like one. Monica has taken Indian spices and flavors and infused them in recipes that take a fraction of the time or effort of more traditional Indian recipes. For pure comfort food, try the Indian "Burger" made from mashed potatoes or Salmon with Kumquat Chutney.
The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook
I have to hand it to Jaden. In a very short time she has established herself as a food blogging diva. This year I shared the podium twice with her at food blogging conferences. Her recipes are well-tested and perfect for those who want to try their hand at making Asian food at home. Her chatty informal style has made her a hit with countless fans. Jaden's photos are lovely and if you enjoy her blog, I am sure you will want to add this book to your collection.
Not cookbooks, but memoirs with recipes:
The Sharper Your Knife The Less You Cry
This book came out in paperback in the Fall of last year, but I didn't discover it until the Spring of this year. I read it on my way to the Foodista Food Bloggers Conference. I was mid-way through it when I met the author Kathleen Flinn. Kathleen is just amazing. She's always coming up with good ideas and seems to have the energy and wherewithal to make stuff happen. We all need people like that in our life. Her book was perfect for my trip, it's a wonderful kind of vacation read. It took me to Paris and to the trials and tribulations of cooking school. Who wouldn't want to vicariously experience that? Plus there are recipes for classic French dishes and more.
My Sweet Life in Paris
I am such a fan of David's that he could write a shopping list and I would probably love it. He lives a life in Paris that many of us only dream about. But rather than share the details through rose-colored glasses David tells it like it is. Funny, satirical and a master pastry chef who will win you over with his recipes and his prose. Read this book and you will feel like David is your friend too. I shared my book with a friend planning a trip to Paris so I can't tell you about all the recipes I've bookmarked. If you or someone you know is planning a trip, his resource guides are a must.
Hungry Monkey
It's impossible to overstate how funny this book is. I didn't know Matthew Amster-Burton all that well when I read the book, but I got to know him even better through his hilarious tales. It's about cooking for and with kids, but the recipes are ones that even someone without kids will want to make. Laugh out loud funny; you won't be able to put it down. I wasn't.
Still on my list to read:
L.A.'s Original Farmers Market Cookbook
My friend JoAnn Cianciulli wrote this terrific book with profiles of the vendors at the market at 3rd and Fairfax. Having visited the market I fell in love with the book. JoAnn is a fabulous storyteller and having written several cookbooks she knows how recipes work. Another reason why I love this book is the variety of recipes. There are dishes from all over the world yet the ingredients and instructions are very straightforward. I've made the crepes and the spiced nuts, both are winners. You could cook out of this book for a year and never get bored, you'll find everything from Seafood Gumbo, Kalbi, Tuna Sambal, Leek and Goat Cheese Quiche, to Almond Horns and Banana Cream Pie. If you love street food, this cookbook will really appeal to you.
Soaked, Slathered and Seasoned
I feel very fortunate to have gotten to know Elizabeth Karmel this year. She is smart, funny and a very talented cook and restaurateur. I am not much of griller, but I turned to her book time and again for marinades and sauces. You will never buy a premade spice rub after trying her recipes for Hot & Sticky BBQ Rub or her Original Three Ingredient Rub. I also learned the proportions for making excellent compound butter from her book. With or without a grill, the vinaigrettes, pestos, butters, rubs, sauces, marinades and more make this a super handy reference.
Asian Dumplings
I am extremely lucky to live in San Francisco where I can get an staggering array of Asian dumplings, morning noon or night. A good thing, because I sometimes think I could subsist only on noodles and dumplings. Andrea Nguyen has written a book that will demystify making dumplings at home. I feel terrible for not yet having tried any of her recipes, but if you live in a place where Asian dumplings are not readily available, this will be your go to guide to making them. And really, wouldn't it be fun to throw a dumpling party and have a bunch of friends over to make them, eat them and take some home?
Tequila
In the course of my writing for Cheers magazine I have talked to quite a few bartenders and beverage managers and they have all told me that tequila is where it's at. Vodka is passe, gin is well established, but tequila has a range of styles and flavor profiles that don't only get bartenders excited but cooks like me and seasoned chefs like my friend Joanne Weir. Joanne gathered cocktail recipes both new and classic from bartenders all over the country. In the second half of the book she shares recipes for nibbles that include tequila and can be paired with tequila. She shares the brands she loves, how tequila is made and describes the different styles of tequila. This book paired with a bottle of tequila would make a fantastic gift. Or just buy it for yourself and become a tequila connoisseur.
Modern Spice
Author Monica Bhide is my Twitter friend. I have never met her in person, but I feel like she is my friend, in part because she writes wonderful personal stories with her recipes. They are stories about friends and family that will touch your heart. Her book is not a memoir but it almost feels like one. Monica has taken Indian spices and flavors and infused them in recipes that take a fraction of the time or effort of more traditional Indian recipes. For pure comfort food, try the Indian "Burger" made from mashed potatoes or Salmon with Kumquat Chutney.
The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook
I have to hand it to Jaden. In a very short time she has established herself as a food blogging diva. This year I shared the podium twice with her at food blogging conferences. Her recipes are well-tested and perfect for those who want to try their hand at making Asian food at home. Her chatty informal style has made her a hit with countless fans. Jaden's photos are lovely and if you enjoy her blog, I am sure you will want to add this book to your collection.
Not cookbooks, but memoirs with recipes:
The Sharper Your Knife The Less You Cry
This book came out in paperback in the Fall of last year, but I didn't discover it until the Spring of this year. I read it on my way to the Foodista Food Bloggers Conference. I was mid-way through it when I met the author Kathleen Flinn. Kathleen is just amazing. She's always coming up with good ideas and seems to have the energy and wherewithal to make stuff happen. We all need people like that in our life. Her book was perfect for my trip, it's a wonderful kind of vacation read. It took me to Paris and to the trials and tribulations of cooking school. Who wouldn't want to vicariously experience that? Plus there are recipes for classic French dishes and more.
My Sweet Life in Paris
I am such a fan of David's that he could write a shopping list and I would probably love it. He lives a life in Paris that many of us only dream about. But rather than share the details through rose-colored glasses David tells it like it is. Funny, satirical and a master pastry chef who will win you over with his recipes and his prose. Read this book and you will feel like David is your friend too. I shared my book with a friend planning a trip to Paris so I can't tell you about all the recipes I've bookmarked. If you or someone you know is planning a trip, his resource guides are a must.
Hungry Monkey
It's impossible to overstate how funny this book is. I didn't know Matthew Amster-Burton all that well when I read the book, but I got to know him even better through his hilarious tales. It's about cooking for and with kids, but the recipes are ones that even someone without kids will want to make. Laugh out loud funny; you won't be able to put it down. I wasn't.
Still on my list to read:
Chorizo Stuffed, Bacon Wrapped, Pitted Dates
My sister made these over the holidays. They are blood-thickening. But oh, they're worth it. This is why you serve them as appetizers to a large group, so you won't be tempted to polish them all off on your own. You see, I'm just looking out for your well-being. But New Year's Resolutions aside, these are easy, and unexpected, little nibbles that will delight everyone they come in contact with. A perfect combination of salty, sweet and savory.
Now you can have it all, rolled up into one.
Chorizo Stuffed, Bacon Wrapped, Pitted Dates
Note: quantities are up to you and depend on the number of people you plan on serving
Pitted dates
Several slices of bacon (uncooked)
Chorizo sausage in casing (cooked or uncooked), spicy chorizo is wonderful, but it's a matter of personal preferance.
Slice one side of the dates to open them up, but don't cut them clear in half, you want one side to remain intact. Remove the sausage from the casing and stuff a bit of the chorizo into each date. Wrap the date around the sausage, then wrap the date with some of the bacon. Secure each date with a toothpick.
Heat a skillet over medium to medium-high heat, you don't really need to add oil as the bacon should do the job for you. Pan fry the dates on each side until the bacon turns dark brown, even a little blackened and the sausage is cooked through, 7-9 minutes total. Drain the dates on paper towles before plating. Serve to ooohs and aaaahs.
Photo du Jour
Impressive entrance way along the Canal du Midi. It might belong to the Château de Jouarres, which is currently being turned into a luxury apartment development complete with two swimming pools, a wine school and a bar/restaurant.
There goes the neighborhood.
I love the individual animal and human faces along the top.
National Novel Writing Month
I discovered this event a few weeks ago and have been getting ready for it.
This should be an interesting November!
This should be an interesting November!
Top Chef: The Quickfire Cookbook Review
On the TV show Top Chef, contestants create dishes to impress the judges often with limited resources of time or money or ingredients. From a viewer's perspective, the biggest problem with the show is that you can't taste the food. Still I love it. Perhaps it's because I enjoy the challenging aspects of cooking--like every other home cook, I am challenged to use what ingredients I have and the techniques I know, to cook something delicious, day after day, night after night.
Sometimes I wonder if I would agree with the judges. And I wonder how good those cooked-in-a-flash dishes with barely any ingredients really taste. I may never bother cooking something sous vide, break down an entire side of beef or serve 200 guests in one evening, but I'm happy to say I can now duplicate various dishes presented in the quickfire challenges on Top Chef thanks to Top Chef: The Quickfire Cookbook.
top chef: The Quickfire Challenge Cookbook features mostly recipes that home cooks can easily duplicate. They don't take much time or many exotic ingredients. Some of them are straight forward like Mia's Bean Salad that's basically three bean salad with a few twists--fresh mint, capers, canned beets and artichoke hearts all served over salad greens. Other dishes are more sophisticated like Jennifer's Shrimp and Scallop Beignets. There are desserts, breakfast dishes, salads, entrees, soups and even a few cocktails. Recently I got a chance to try Jamie's Chickpea Soup and it was divine. It's flavored with vadouvan (or use curry) and topped with a cilantro, mint and lemon zest spiked yogurt.
There are lots of fun features that will appeal to Top Chef fans in the book, little inside peeks at the filming, contestants and chances to test your foodie IQ. Something I especially like are the detailed instructions on some "molecular gastronomy" style dishes and flourishes you can make at home. Andrew's Faux Caviar made from tapioca pearls seasoned with balsamic vinegar and soy sauce is top on my list to try! So too are Stephanie's White Ale-Orange Juice Mussels, Radhika's Kebab Sausage with Tomato Jam and Hung's Chocolate Pie with Bananas.
Top Chef: The Quickfire Challenge Cookbook is just a tremendously accessible and fun book to dig into. It's perfect for fans of the show or anyone wanting to try to add a bit more flair to their cooking. Best of all, you can get a chance to win a copy of this book signed by chef contestants Jennifer Biesty, Ryan Scott and Jamie Lauren along with a salt cellar, a selection of Diamond Crystal® kosher, coarse and fine sea salt, a $25 CHEFS gift certificate, a signed copy of Michael Symon's Live to Cook, as well as Good Eats: The Early Years, Top Chef: The Cookbook and Top Chef Quickfire Challenge Game. How can you win this fabulous prize package ? By bidding on it over at the Menu for Hope campaign.
To bid on this prize package, go to the donation site at Firstgiving, specify prize code UW21 in the 'Personal Message' section in the donation form when confirming your donation and how many tickets you'd like to purchase, keeping in mind that tickets are $10 each and all proceeds go towards the UN World Food Programme. The Menu for Hope bidding ends December 31st, 2009, so don't be left out!
Note: This prize package, worth more than $200, is available to anyone with a United States shipping address.
My (un)Favorite Time of Year
Early summer should be an enjoyable time of year. The days are lovely and warm but not too hot yet, and the evenings are deliciously cool. The rosé flows generously, apricots, cherries and peaches appear at the market and barbeques become de rigeur.
Yes, I should enjoy this time of year. But for me, the middle of June is marred by something so awful....
it's almost too painful to mention...
it's time to renew my Carte de Séjour
(cue: screaming)
Yes, I should enjoy this time of year. But for me, the middle of June is marred by something so awful....
it's almost too painful to mention...
it's time to renew my Carte de Séjour
(cue: screaming)
Beautiful Petaluma market
We went to Petaluma market last Saturday afternoon - the market is held every Saturday at Walnut Park. What a feast of fresh ripe produce!
I bought the tastiest peaches and nectarines, both yellow and white and am enjoying them every morning for breakfast with plain yogurt and Grapes & Nuts cereal. On the side alley a man was eating a peach he had just bought and had juice all over his hands, he said, a bit embarassed :"I guess this is what they call 'juicy'". 
Another stand had all sorts of greens, artistically displayed. 
I was also tempted by beetroots and radishes, ideal for a quick lunch.
We've been ejoying all these goodies at our table. Check this simple salad made with red and yellow beets.
Besides fresh produce, the market features other items that range from fresh bread to necklaces, and as you see, the whole experience is nicely wrapped in music!
Looking For Work in France
As soon as my contract at the restaurant ended in October, I gathered all of my paperwork and went to register with the unemployment office in Béziers. It was an errand that took a ridiculous amount of time driving around lost in a Zone Industrielle with unmarked streets before I finally stumbled across the nondescript Pôle-Emploi building surrounded by car dealerships.
Once there I met with a couple of young, perky fonctionnaires and left the office with my all important registration number and yet another dossier crammed full of information to translate.
Almost every morning I dutifully log in to their website to see what jobs are available within a 50 kilometer radius of our village. You'll never guess what employment opportunity popped up on my search the other day...
a job as a shepherd.
For a second it looked intriguing.
Then I read the job requirements and they only wanted a shepherd with at least three years experience.
Guess that leaves me out of the running.
Once there I met with a couple of young, perky fonctionnaires and left the office with my all important registration number and yet another dossier crammed full of information to translate.
Almost every morning I dutifully log in to their website to see what jobs are available within a 50 kilometer radius of our village. You'll never guess what employment opportunity popped up on my search the other day...
a job as a shepherd.
For a second it looked intriguing.
Then I read the job requirements and they only wanted a shepherd with at least three years experience.
Guess that leaves me out of the running.
Oenology course closing dinner in Saumur
The closing dinner of the Oenology course I have attended this year (Universite d'Angers) was organized in a charming little restaurant, La Taverne d’Antoine, located on the road between Doué-la-Fontaine et Saumur, at Ulmes.
The evening started with a quote, written on a small board and attached to one of the beams of the ceiling: Drink wine and live a joyful life!
The evening started with a quote, written on a small board and attached to one of the beams of the ceiling: Drink wine and live a joyful life!
Our Master of Ceremonies was Mr Patrick Rigourd, a passionate sommelier and instructor at the University of Angers (Oenology Dpt.).
In 2001, Patrick ranked 5th in the contest of best "cavistes" of the francophone world. His enthusiasm for wine is truly contagious!
Thirty participants attended the event and the atmosphere was joyful indeed!
Bay Area Bloggers Meet the Press
Over the weekend I got a message from local television station KRON4:
"KRON4 television is hosting a meet-up of Bay Area bloggers at noon on Saturday, June 11, 2005. Snacks will be served and we'll have a little memento for attendees. There's no agenda other than helping facilitate this meet-up. We recognize the significance of the personal media revolution, and we want to listen to what you're saying. We think this is a good way to start.
All Bay Area bloggers are invited to attend, so help us spread the word. We've come up with 278 e-mail addresses so far, but many bloggers don't make theirs publicly available. Feel free to add e-mail addresses to the invitation list.
We want this to be an informal and intimate get-together, so come prepared to meet and make new friends. Use the RSVP function of Evite to let us know if you can make it. We want to make sure we have enough snacks for everybody."
If you are a Bay Area blogger, and would like to participate, and didn't get this invite, please send me an email with your blog address and email and I will gladly forward you the invite. As the note indicates, this is open to ALL Bay Area bloggers, not just food bloggers. We'll save those meet-ups for another time!
cheers,
Amy
Next post we return to regular programming...er blogging.
Still hungry?
Over at SF Station is my review of the Cafe Majestic. It's a bit pricey but an elegant spot to go for intimate celebrations.
FOOD
La Fête du Fromage - Le Saint-Christophe
Heavily perfumed with the scent of woody herbs and goat-filled barnyards, Le Saint-Christophe is not for the faint of heart!
This is a bold cheese.
It looks innocent enough - a nice, soft white rind wrapped around a creamy, melting interior - mais attention, looks can be deceiving! One taste and your senses are hit with a blast of tantalizing, spicy and seductive flavors.
I was pleasantly surprised, to say the least.
If you love assertive, intensely flavored goat's cheese, this is one that you must try.
Le Saint-Christophe is an unpasteurized goat's milk cheese, produced and matured on a farm near the small town of St-Christophe Vallon, in the Aveyron.
A glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc or Sancerre would be a good match to this cheese's robust flavors.
More about my home - and aswers to your comments
The building where I live was build in 1865. I found in a brocante a postcard dated 1906; I blew it up and framed. On the left, my building. The trees, that reach the 2nd floor in the postcard, are very high now, they reach the 5th floor! Today the train tracks have disappeared - and the horses too! 
I live in the 2nd fl (American 3rd) of the building, right above Le Congres, as the restuarant is now called. In this Hausmann style architecture, the 2nd and 5th floors have balconies. This picture shows my side balcony along the boulevard.
At the turn of the century, the restaurant in the ground and first floor, called then La Rotonde, got permission for an extension in front. 
The roof of the round extension is ... my deck!! Here is my living room as seen from the deck in the evening.
Going back to my cellar, it is located in the 2nd basement, and it is pretty big. The second basement means that there are two flights of floors underground. Both have cellars, one per flat, plus one we use for bicycles. The first underground floor also has the elevator engine.We store wine and "stuff", such as a couple of solid oak beds I had when we lived in Kenya 30 years ago, metal trunks with loads of souvenirs, paint, Christmas decorations..... and more
One of the owners remembers that during WW2 my cellar was used by the building dwellers during the bombings. The Renault factory at Billancourt Island, which was bombed during the war, was only 2 miles away.
If walls could talk!
> You cannot store wine in just any cellar, you need good humidity and temperature conditions. Because only old cellars (dirt floor, stone walls and no concrete) are optimum to store wine, you can buy wine storage cellars that look like a fridge. The challenge for the manufacturer was to avoid the virbrations of the engine that would very much damange the aging of wine - that's why these cellars are NOT a fridge!
> You cannot store wine in just any cellar, you need good humidity and temperature conditions. Because only old cellars (dirt floor, stone walls and no concrete) are optimum to store wine, you can buy wine storage cellars that look like a fridge. The challenge for the manufacturer was to avoid the virbrations of the engine that would very much damange the aging of wine - that's why these cellars are NOT a fridge!
Everyday Cookware
Having used saucepans and saute pans from Bourgeat, Calphalon, Reverware and more, there's no brand to date that has completely won my loyalty. Recently I received a saute pan and saucepan from Biro Cookware and so far I'm very pleased with them. They are made of two layers of stainless steel and an aluminum core.
The first thing that impressed me about the cookware was that it has great weight to it, so pans and lids stay put. I seem to have a problem with pots boiling over and lids flying off and that clearly won't happen with a lid that weighs just under one pound. Also the heat conduction is impressive. I think the combination of aluminum and stainless steel is a good one as far as strength and heat and I like the brushed stainless steel look. I particularly like the fact that you can really crank up the heat and yet so far the pans have been pretty easy to clean. But I'm a strong believer that it's not until your first cooking disaster that cookware shows its true colors, so I am going to reserve final judgement for now.
I asked Marcel Biro, Master Chef de Cuisine, restaurateur and cooking instructor what makes his line of "celebrity cookware" different, and here's what he told me:
"I worked closely with the Regal Ware Worldwide engineers, and with the voice of the customers--my students. I am most proud of the quality of this cookware. Quality cookware and ingredients yield quality food. This is the cornerstone of everything I do.
What I most like about the cookware are the long handles and the great wide helper handles that stay nice and cool to the touch. The weight of the pan guarantees stable cooking, and the aluminum core throughout is not just on the bottom like so many pans on the market today. This ensures even cooking throughout the pan, not just on the bottom. Also my cookware can be used on electric, gas and induction, making it very versatile.
We throw it in the oven at the restaurants and culinary schools all the time, and we're talking about equipment with 50,000 - 100,000 BTU's which is double or triple that of a home oven. Consumers never have to worry about replacing these pots and pans."
Biro Cookware was only introduced earlier this year, so if you have any experience with it, please feel free to share your feedback in the comments section. If some other cookware meets your performance and practical requirements feel free to share your recommendations as well.
COOKWARE
Quel réveillon!
Bonne année! It is noon in France as I write, and my family is still asleep, recovering from going to bed at 4:30 am after our New Year's Eve celebration, which you can read about on my other blog, La France Profonde. Today in Cuisine Quotidienne, I'll give you the details of this not-so-quotidian meal which we shared with four other families.
This year our réveillon had nine courses:
The apéritif: sparkling Vouvray and a host of savory "cakes", mini-blinis with smoked salmons, roquefort cream on walnut bread, and raw vegetables with an herb dip. This course was my contribution and the crudités with dip were something of a conversation piece, definitely more American than French.
The first starter: a green salad served with a thick slice of foie gras.
The second starter: baked oysters with roquefort or shallot sauce.
The third starter: a fish terrine.
The next course: a trou normand! This small serving of sorbet and Calvados is meant to cleanse the palate and is still a feature of big, traditional meals. I have rarely tasted one but I can attest after last night that it works! Because after eating it we were able to go on to:
The main course: a venison roast served with green beans and puff potatoes.
The cheese course, of course...
The main desserts: a homemade bûche de Noël, or yule log cake, and une omelette norvégienne, or baked Alaska.
Coffee and homemade chocolate truffles
Fruit
I usually find it difficult to stay up after 1 or 2am, but not yesterday: time flies when you're eating nine courses!
This year our réveillon had nine courses:
The apéritif: sparkling Vouvray and a host of savory "cakes", mini-blinis with smoked salmons, roquefort cream on walnut bread, and raw vegetables with an herb dip. This course was my contribution and the crudités with dip were something of a conversation piece, definitely more American than French.
The first starter: a green salad served with a thick slice of foie gras.
The second starter: baked oysters with roquefort or shallot sauce.
The third starter: a fish terrine.
The next course: a trou normand! This small serving of sorbet and Calvados is meant to cleanse the palate and is still a feature of big, traditional meals. I have rarely tasted one but I can attest after last night that it works! Because after eating it we were able to go on to:
The main course: a venison roast served with green beans and puff potatoes.
The cheese course, of course...
The main desserts: a homemade bûche de Noël, or yule log cake, and une omelette norvégienne, or baked Alaska.
Coffee and homemade chocolate truffles
Fruit
I usually find it difficult to stay up after 1 or 2am, but not yesterday: time flies when you're eating nine courses!
Great Valentine Class!
What a great crowd! A hands-on class where everybody participated and enjoyed the day.
Patty James and I had lots of fun during this class and have made projects to meet again for more French cooking. Follow up the news in both of our websites
Meat Cookbooks
Vegetarians, avert your eyes, now! This year there are several cookbooks dedicated to cooking meat. If you are like me, you are eating less meat, but being more particular about what you consume. I no longer buy meat at the supermarket. I am too haunted by images of factory farming. But I am still eating meat and while it makes up less of the plate, the few days a week I do cook it, I want it to be as deliciously satisfying as possible. Each of the following books are written by James Beard award-winners who know their stuff. Their recipes work, their writing is clear and their knowledge unassailable.
James Peterson is an experienced cooking teacher, he not only knows how to cook, but knows how to explain it clearly to just about anyone. Meat, A Kitchen Education is his latest book. All kinds of cooking methods are covered in it and it's worth pointing out his book includes chicken, turkey and fowl. Step-by-step photos show how to carve, make dishes like salt pork and veal chops in papillote. The book focuses on classic dishes like Irish Stew, and Beef Wellington but also has more creative ones such as Oxtail Stew with Grapes, and Mostarda di Cremona. Particularly helpful are illustrations that show where each cut comes from on the animal. The book has 175 recipes.
The most massive tome out this season is Good Meat, subtitled the complete guide to sourcing and cooking sustainable meat, by Deborah Krasner. If you are concerned about sustainability, this is your book. It answers the questions you may have about grass-fed beef, Halal and Kosher meat, the flavor of pastured meat, "pink veal" and other modern meat issues that are not necessarily covered in other books. It is lovingly written, I don't know how else to describe it. The photos are stunning of both animals and dishes. There are recipes for using offal, pheasant, and pig's tail, in addition to much more accessible cuts and types of meat. Recipes I can't wait to try include Lamb Sausage, Eggplant and Orzo Salad, Pork Loin Chops with Ruby Port, Prunes, Cinnamon, Turmeric and Ginger and Beef Stew with Vermouth, Yam, and Mint (it included pomegranate molasses). The book has over 200 recipes.
The smallest format book is Falling Off the Bone by Jean Anderson. This is a straight-forward recipe book. Not all the recipes use meat on the bone, but all are for succulent style dishes that will make you swoon. It's a book of comfort food, plain and simple. It includes and braises, soups and stews. There are old fashioned dishes like Country-fried Steak and more out of the ordinary dishes like Aegean Lamb and Fennel Stew, Far East Spareribs on Sesame Sauerkraut and Danish Fricadeller in Onion Sauce. Unlike the other books, this one includes just beef, pork, lamb and veal, and no poultry or game. The book has 163 recipes.
James Peterson is an experienced cooking teacher, he not only knows how to cook, but knows how to explain it clearly to just about anyone. Meat, A Kitchen Education is his latest book. All kinds of cooking methods are covered in it and it's worth pointing out his book includes chicken, turkey and fowl. Step-by-step photos show how to carve, make dishes like salt pork and veal chops in papillote. The book focuses on classic dishes like Irish Stew, and Beef Wellington but also has more creative ones such as Oxtail Stew with Grapes, and Mostarda di Cremona. Particularly helpful are illustrations that show where each cut comes from on the animal. The book has 175 recipes. The most massive tome out this season is Good Meat, subtitled the complete guide to sourcing and cooking sustainable meat, by Deborah Krasner. If you are concerned about sustainability, this is your book. It answers the questions you may have about grass-fed beef, Halal and Kosher meat, the flavor of pastured meat, "pink veal" and other modern meat issues that are not necessarily covered in other books. It is lovingly written, I don't know how else to describe it. The photos are stunning of both animals and dishes. There are recipes for using offal, pheasant, and pig's tail, in addition to much more accessible cuts and types of meat. Recipes I can't wait to try include Lamb Sausage, Eggplant and Orzo Salad, Pork Loin Chops with Ruby Port, Prunes, Cinnamon, Turmeric and Ginger and Beef Stew with Vermouth, Yam, and Mint (it included pomegranate molasses). The book has over 200 recipes. The smallest format book is Falling Off the Bone by Jean Anderson. This is a straight-forward recipe book. Not all the recipes use meat on the bone, but all are for succulent style dishes that will make you swoon. It's a book of comfort food, plain and simple. It includes and braises, soups and stews. There are old fashioned dishes like Country-fried Steak and more out of the ordinary dishes like Aegean Lamb and Fennel Stew, Far East Spareribs on Sesame Sauerkraut and Danish Fricadeller in Onion Sauce. Unlike the other books, this one includes just beef, pork, lamb and veal, and no poultry or game. The book has 163 recipes.
Think Pink - Sour Cherry Frozen Yogurt
This year's bounty of sour cherries were turned into some fantastic, colorful, sweet and savory concoctions.
First, I got a batch of Liqueur de Griottes started, then made several jars of Griotte Cherries with Bay Leaf and Sour Cherry Compote. Then, just as I was about to make a tub of Sour Cherry Gelato, I stumbled across a recipe for David Lebovitz's Strawberry Frozen Yogurt and decided to try the same thing with some of the sour cherries.
The result was amazing!
I cooked the griottes a bit first, then cooled them down before adding plain yogurt and churning in the ice cream maker. The cherries released juices that turned gorgeously, vibrantly pink. The flavor was both sweet and tangy...just perfect for summer.
Sour Cherry Frozen Yogurt
makes about 1 quart
1 pound sour cherries, washed and pitted
3/4 cup sugar
1 cup plain, whole milk yogurt
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Put the cherries in a heavy pan and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the cherries give up their juice.
Cool.
If you want a smooth texture, place the cherries in a blender or food processor, pulsing several times. (I left mine whole.)
Stir in the sugar and let sit, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has completely dissolved.
Stir in the lemon juice and the yogurt and make sure everything is well blended.
Place in the refrigerator for an hour then freeze in an ice cream maker according to its manufacturer's instructions.
.
Contigo: First Impression
Is Contigo the next big thing? The future may be unknown, but as the magic eight ball says "signs point to yes." I was one of the few that got a preview of the restaurant and while my expectations were high, having eaten Brett Emerson's food a few times before, I was very impressed. Emerson creates food with big flavors and clearly uses the best ingredients he can find. The staff even in early days, are friendly, helpful and joyful.
The menu is divided into small plates "Pica-Pica" and large plates, "Platillos" and is inspired by the cuisine of Spain and Catalunya in particular. The vibe is San Francisco meets Barcelona. On the small plate menu, the Patatas Bravas were the crispiest I have ever had and the aillioli and salsa brava really whet my appetite. Even something as simple as Setas a la Plancha or grilled mushrooms were intensely flavored and delectable. This time of year nothing quite says comfort like a grilled cheese sandwich and Contigo's is a winner. Slices of salty jamon (Spanish ham) mingle with gooey queso de tetilla cheese and sweet membrillo (quince paste).
My favorite dish might have been Butter Beans with Pork Belly, Ears and Feet. Everything was tender and soul-satisfying and showed expert technique in coaxing the goodness out each of the cuts. The Trout with Baby Leeks was great too, so fresh tasting. Be sure to leave room for dessert. It's hard not to order churros and chocolate. The churros are particularly thin and crunchy, perfect for dipping, but as our waiter pointed out, even when the churros are gone, the chocolate is good for sipping too. Thankfully even when full, the noise level is kept in check. I know I'm biased, but I'm also excited to see this wonderful restaurant make such a terrific debut.
For more first impressions, check out the Bunrabs report and Thy Tran's report on Bay Area Bites.
Contigo
1320 Castro St
San Francisco
415.285.0250
Tuesday - Thursday 5:30 - 10 pm
Friday - Saturday 5:30 - 11 pm
Photo du Jour
Our unsuccessful visit to the farm yesterday took us through the hilly AOC Cabardès wine region.
Cabardès has been recognized as an AOC for only 8 years. It is a new wine for us to discover!
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Recent recipes on Like to Cook: Bay Scallop Chowder, Fried Green Tomatoes and a delicious, buttery French Apple Cake.
Cabardès has been recognized as an AOC for only 8 years. It is a new wine for us to discover!
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Recent recipes on Like to Cook: Bay Scallop Chowder, Fried Green Tomatoes and a delicious, buttery French Apple Cake.
Kappa: Restaurant Revisited
When I went to Japan I thought I knew what Japanese food was. Boy, was I ever wrong! Going to Kappa is much the same experience. In addition to the kimono-clad hostess, the menu written in Japanese and the virtually all Japanese clientele, the food is koryori style, a traditional small plate cuisine from Kyoto not found anywhere else in town. Sure most of the dishes are familiar, but if you order the prix fixe meal several of the items are quite out of the ordinary.
Lee has been wanting to go back to Kappa ever since we went two years ago for his birthday. Since the prix fixe meal is rather special that was his choice again for this year's birthday. As I mentioned the last time around, there is no sign in English for the restaurant and the wooden door slides open so you really don't know where you are going. Lost in Translation anyone?
The monkfish liver was one dish I remember from our last meal, creamy and mild yet firm almost like a Japanese foie gras.
Dungeness crab
I apologize for the poor photo. I am getting over a cold and struggling with a new camera, so bear with me...This course included meltingly tender octopus in red bean, duck, sea snail, uni served as sushi a chicken meatball, a tofu and fish melange and a refreshingly tangy, sweet and sour mountain berry.
Next a sashimi plate notable was the fresh real wasabi and the outstanding octopus, more delicate with none of the rubbery quality you often find. Lee thought the snapper was the best he'd ever had.
Mostly grilled items on this plate, grilled herring stuffed with a spicy red peppered roe, a perfectly crispy boneless fried skate wing, homemade unagi, this buttery sweet barbecue eel was my favorite, and grilled beef tongue. The texture was not like tongue I've had before, it was firmer, more like a thin steak.
Can't tell you much about the soup other than there were enoki mushrooms, a shrimp ball, some fresh mustard greens and bamboo shoot in it. The spinachy green pillow might have been some kind of mochi, I'm not sure.
Finally the end approaches! A red bean paste over sweet rice, black sesame filled mochi, fresh mango and pear.
And a perfect cup of green tea. Happy birthday Lee!
Kappa (go upstairs from the Denny's, then through the door that says "night club" and open the sliding door inside with no sign)
1700 Post St., Suite K
San Francisco
(415) 673-6004 - Call for reservations after 4:30pm
Mon - Fri: 6pm - 10pm
Saturday: 6pm - 9pm
FOOD + JAPANESE+SAN FRANCISCO
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