Two Appetizers: Gruyère Cheese Gougères and Blue Cheese, Pear and Walnut Crostini


This is my first Recipes to Rival challenge, as I just joined this group of adventerous cooks who challenge themselves with a savory recipe monthly. This month, we had the choice of two of three appetizers, and I choose Thomas Keller's Gruyère Cheese Gougères as well as Blue Cheese, Pear and Walnut Crostini. For the recipes, you can go here. I realize I'm a few days late, but I wanted to make these for my family and we were in the Colorado mountains skiing for the holidays so this is the soonest I could get to it (that sounds an awful lot like an excuse, but there you have it).


Gougères are magical little things, although for me, almost anything baked is. But the transformation that takes place from liquid to solid occurs right in the pan on the stovetop, quickly and right before your eyes. Like a child performing a science experiment, I think I audibly gasped "cool" as the dough came together. And it is cool, too.


The crostini are more about combining than creating, but the fruit, the cheese, the nuts, they activate every part of the tongue and an equally stunning transformation takes place. For my version, I used pecans instead of walnuts because they are irresistable. So if transformation is the theme, these are perfectly fitting little nibbles for the New Year when everything seems to be on the cusp of change.

La Fête du Fromage - Bergues

For the last several weeks I've tasted some cheeses that have completely blown me away by their unique, aromatic and amazing flavors. Things were a little different this week...

Let me introduce you to Bergues.
Bergues is an unpasteurized, lower in fat (only around 20% versus the normal 40-60%), cow's milk cheese that is repeatedly washed in beer (a good thing, I thought) while it matures, producing a rich aroma. It has been made for centuries in the town of Bergues, which is only a few miles from the Belgian border, in an area referred to as French Flanders.

And it tastes like....



AIR.

Is. Has. No. Flavor.
None. Nada.
Rien.

We even let it sit out to mature a bit, thinking the flavor would develop into something.
Nope. Not a chance.

Now that you've been introduced to Bergues, you can promptly forget its name. Try not to be introduced again.
And if someday you are faced with Bergues, pretend you are allergic to cheese. Or pretend you are lactose intolerant. Whatever you have to do not to eat this stuff.

Want a wine pairing idea? No, you don't. Because you don't ever need to bother tasting it.


If there are any Bergues lovers out there, I'd like to know. Because really, how can you enjoy eating air disguised as cheese?

Photo du Jour


The Relais de Camont, where you can have your own French kitchen adventure.

Cabernet Sauvignon in France

I have no plans on becoming a wine blogger as such, but I do enjoy French wine and have been writing for Wine Sediments, part of the Well Fed Network.

As I mentioned in my last post, our editor, Andrew Barrow, started a blogging event called Great Grape Day , where once a month we will blog about a particular grape variety, or cépage in French. We will be taking outside contributions and hope to have a few more next time, so if you're interested in wine, keep that in mind!

Here is my post for this month's event:

Cabernet Sauvignon in France

Although cabernet sauvignon certainly comes to mind as one of France's major grape varieties, it actually only takes fifth place, occupying approximately 50,000 hectares. It is, famously, the dominant grape in Médoc wines, where it can make up 80% of a "Cru classé."

Cabernet sauvignon is widely used in the South-West, especially in Bergerac
and Buzet. It is also grown in Languedoc and Provence. We can even find a few thousand hectares of the variety in the Loire Valley, where it represents a minor component of most of the region's reds, and is also found in the lesser-known AOC rosés Cabernet d'Anjou and Cabernet de Saumur.

Here are some of the other event posts that will be of interest to CQ readers:

What Food With Cabernet?

Cabernet Sauvignon on the Blogs

Cabernet Sauvignon for Vegetarians


Photo Credit: Wine Tours of the Languedoc

Heirloom Tomato Tart







This one isn't from a cookbook, but came about because of my tendency to impulsively buy large stockpiles of fresh produce whenever I see something delicious looking.  Oh but were these heirloom tomatoes ever beautiful!

Fresh Heirloom Tomato Tart with Phyllo Dough Crust
A bunch of perfect looking heirloom tomatoes, too good to pass up
Package of pre-made phyllo dough
Olive Oil
Parmesan Cheese
Basil
Butter or Pam

Basically, I just prepared the phyllo dough crust the same way you'd made anything with phyllo dough, by brushing each sheet with melted butter (you can also use a misting of pam) and layering the sheets into a tart pan with a removable bottom.  Be careful to alternate the direction of the sheets so that there isn't one seam.  I prebaked the crust until it was a bit golden, then arranged the sliced tomatoes on top and baked again until they were roasted.  Once out of the oven, I added a little grated parmesan, a drizzle of olive oil and some basil.  Easy peasy!

More Food Blogs



The wonderful thing about surfing food web sites is you get to be an armchair traveller. There are many places I would love to go and visiting certain sites, blogs in particular, gives me a window into those places and what life there, especially culinary life, is like.



Late last Fall I discovered Chocolate and Zucchini. An unlikely pairing perhaps, but it reflects the adventurous side of a culinary enthusiast who approaches cooking and eating out with equal zest. Clotilde shares her experiences and adventures with a passion that makes you want to go along for the ride. Clotilde is a Parisian chocolate lover and very brave when it comes to trying out new and challenging recipes. I already shared her delight in French cuisine, now I get to live vicariously through reading about her culinary exploits.



Just a few weeks ago I came upon another interesting site this one from Asia, that has captured my imagination. Like Clothide, Renee posts entirely in English and takes wonderful digital photos of her culinary discoveries and creations. Her stories lately have been about the Lunar New Year celebration and the accompanying food of Singapore. Reading along at Shiokadelicious you experience the sights, sounds and tastes of Singapore. Shiok, Renee explains means "fantastic, marvelous, an exclamation of enjoyment" and the site is nothing if not an honest expression of the love for all things culinary. I particularly like Renee's stories about her family and her retelling of traditions and legends that relate to food.



Both sites, like mine, include recipes and additional details on food preparation as well as restaurant reviews for those of you looking for practical information. Check them out!

At midweek: (more) chicken, exciting hair, and mishaps with clothing

1. I am officially an old pro at roasting chickens. Golden, plump, juicy chickens. I’d say I could do it blindfolded, but there’s no need to brag. Plus, I did have to struggle through another potent “I’m joining PETA now” moment when I was holding the bird and patting salt along its back. At once tender and disturbing, it really felt just like burping a baby. But dinner was delicious: roasted

Roasted Bell Peppers:Recipe


Bell peppers. Have you ever seen them growing? When you see them in the store they're in separate bins segregated by color--red, yellow and green and sometimes orange or purple. But if you see them on the vine, you understand they come from one plant. That green peppers ripen to red, yellow, orange or purple depending upon the variety. By the way, the name "pepper" is really a misnomer. Peppers are in no way related to black pepper. But it took botanists quite a while to figure that out.

Chock full of vitamin C, and gorgeous to look at, peppers are phenomenal when roasted. It may seem like a lot of work, but it's really not. And in any case it's work worth doing. If you have ever had an Italian antipasto spread that included roasted red peppers marinated in a little olive oil and garlic you know what I mean. And if you haven't, give it a try. They also make a wonderful ingredient in other recipes. I love to put them in sandwiches. Pureed, red peppers make a wonderful sauce.

Preparing roasted peppers is really more about technique than recipe. Here are the techniques involved to go from fresh bell peppers to roasted.

Roasting:You begin with a baking sheet covered with foil and oiled or sprayed with cooking spray. Place the washed peppers, any color, on the foil and then drizzle or spray with olive oil before placing in a very hot oven. I put mine on broil. What you want is for the peppers to blacken on the outside. So you need to keep an eye on them and turn them as they get black. When they are uniformly black, take them out of the oven and place in a plastic container with a lid. It is important to seal the container because you need to let the steam from the peppers loosen the skin on the outside to make them easy to peel. They also need to cool. Give them at least ten minutes of cooling time. Twenty is better.

Peeling: The next couple of steps are messy, but it goes pretty quicky. To try to minimize the mess, I used to peel the skin off the peppers under cool running water. But I don't anymore. You end up removing too much of the flavor this way and your peppers will be bland. Trust me on this! Instead take the cooled peppers and trim the stem, ribbing and the seeds out with a paring knife. Using your fingers, rub the blackened skin off the peppers and underneath you will find your prize, a silky roasted pepper. Store in the fridge. They can be marinated in olive oil. Keeps a few days or freeze. Better yet, just use 'em!

Last week I used a bunch of roasted red peppers to make Romesco sauce for fish. But I'll save that recipe for another time.

This week the picks are all about unusual eats...

First off is Becks and Posh who gives us a peek at eating on the Concorde. Technically she might not have eaten on the Concorde but she came pretty close in this post.

Next Lulu Loves Manhattan discovers a canteen at the Ganesh Temple. This is perhaps the most unusual meal of the bunch, but a surprisingly good one and just in time for Diwali.

Finally Life's a Picnic goes retro and finds a hofbrau that time forgot. Check out this terrific deja vu post!

La Gastronomia Italiana (2)

Today I sailed to Bellagio (if you think Vegas, you're wrong!), a charming town on the bank of Lake Como, known as the Pearl of the lake. It lies on the very narrow strip of land between the two branches of the lake.
Bellagio features narrow steep streets among the harmony of its architecture and the beauty of its neo-classic mansions or villas such as Villa Serbelloni or Villa Melzo d'Eril.

We stopped for lunch at La Punta, a restaurant in the Punta Spartivento, a place surrounded by the generous gift of nature where land meets the lake. The delightful verandah was fresh in spite of the heat!I started with a plate of grilled vegetables (antipasto), with grilled slices of eggplant, zucchini, red pepper and potato. ... followed by a plate of home made gnocchini di patate (prima piato) in a Grogonzola and cream sauce.
As usual, I passed il secondo piato to leave room for il dolce or dessert. I had tiramisu!
We had a Pinot nero (black pinot) white wine, fresh and fruity.

Photo du Jour



I've walked by this at least two dozen times and I never really noticed it before yesterday. It is just around the corner from les Halles in Béziers, on a little side street that winds its way toward the Cathedral.

La Beurrerie Moderne - Is that like une Laiterie or une Fromagerie? Is this where someone used to make and sell butter?

Still hungry?



What do I know about Southern food? Absolutely nothing. Except that it sure tastes good. So I was really pleased to get an advanced copy of The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook in the mail and also a chance to review Mrs. Rowe's Restaurant Cookbook. These are both wonderful books filled with recipes, stories and tips for cooking Southern style in your own kitchen. While I think of the South as a region that keeps secrets, these books share the goods.

READ MORE
For my full review and two scrumptious recipes, one for Spoon Bread and the other for Pralines, head over to Bay Area Bites


La Fête du Fromage - Menez Hom

Our friends are leaving for their new home in Brittany in a couple of weeks.
I'm really sad to see them go...however, I think they'll be seeing me up there in the land of cider and crêpes before too long.
I would happily travel all the way to the ends of Brittany just to get my hands on some more of this little gem of a goat's cheese, Menez Hom.


The cheese is named for le Menez Hom, a "mountain" (330 meters) that is way out on the tip of the Crozon Peninsula in Finistère département in Brittany.

This is one of the most unusual unpasteurized chèvres I've ever tasted. Unusual because Menez Hom has no goaty flavor at all and only a very slight, fresh milk aroma. If you're not a fan of goat's cheese, this one might be safe for you to try.
It is delicate and sweet and even though it looks like it might be chalky, it isn't. The texture is super creamy and melts in your mouth. The ash covering is edible and doesn't seem to add any flavor. It has a slight hint of citrus, and some grass and straw flavors. Truly a divine cheese!

I would suggest some hard apple cider, from Brittany, of course, or white wine with this one.

4th of July in the Bay Area


Farewell Sonoma Valley. We left wine country early this morning.

We're in San Francisco for a few days.

Let the fireworks begin and Happy Independence Day!

Still hungry?


Lee and I recently had a terrific meal at Coco500. Coco500 is one of the quintessential San Francisco restaurants of the moment. The menu has so many temptations it can be hard to choose. We ordered so much food we had to take our leftovers home and had no room for dessert. Quel dommage!

READ MORE
Over at SF Station is my review of Coco500


+ +

French Travel Tips For Women




#1 Always carry a little pack of tissue with you.


I can't tell you how many toilets I've encountered in France that have no toilet paper. Or even a seat!
In restaurants. At rest stops. In cafés.
I'm speaking only for France here, not sure about the rest of Europe.

Believe me, keep a little pack with you at all times. You'll thank me later.


One good thing - my thighs are well toned from "hovering."
Gym? Who needs a gym!

Butter Lettuce w/ Lardons and Poached Eggs

I have wanted to try and make this salad for so long, because I love all of the individal ingredients (bacon, butter lettuce, poached eggs, and red & white vinegar) and I knew that their combination would be very satisfying to my tastes. And can I say that not only is this salad very delicious, with a combination of salt and crispy from the lardons and rich and silky from the egg yolk, but it is also one of the easiest things I have made so far. To do everything, from washing the lettuce to preparing the dressing, I needed 30 minutes in the kitchen. It's so easy, and fills a craving when you want something rich and complex in taste!

So, I'll keep this post short, and just say that this wonderful salad can be eaten as a light lunch (with some bread, bien sûr!), or as an appetizer for dinner. Although, I guess I shouldn't put any restrictions on this, because you should really eat this salad whenever you feel like it.

Also, one last note - I know it's not always easy to get fresh produce, but I find that it can make a huge difference with eggs; ce n'est pas grave, but if you can, please try to get your hands on eggs from a farmer's market or a local producer - they've practically just popped out of the chicken!

To make this salad, you will need a small head of lettuce (I used butter lettuce, however this salad traditionally calls for frisée). Additionally, you'll need two bacon strips, white wine vinegar, a small shallot, and red wine vinegar.

Firstly, wash up your lettuce and arrange it however you like on a plate, either cut up into smaller pieces or left whole. Chop up the shallot and set it aside. Next cut up your bacon into little lardons (which usually are about 1/4-inch wide and 1/2-inch long), and cook in a skillet on medium heat until golden and crispy, about 5 minutes. Remove them from heat.

Next, fill a small skillet with warm water (you'll be putting the poached eggs in here to keep them warm while you finish the rest of the recipe). Fill a small saucepan halfway with water, and add 1 1/2 tablespoons white wine vinegar - swish it around with a wooden spoon once or twice to blend, and bring to a simmer. Now, this part can be tricky if you've never poached eggs before, but don't fret because it's super simple. Crack each egg into a teacup or a small shallow dish. Once the water and vinegar start to simmer, bring each teacup right above the waters surface and gently slip in the eggs. With your wooden spoon, lightly move the eggs back and forth for a couple of seconds, in order to make sure the whites stick to the yolk. Simmer for 2-3 minutes, then place in the skillet of warm water.

Reheat the bacon on medium heat, then add the chopped shallot. Cook for about one minute, then add 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar. Cook for 5 seconds (if you cook longer the vinegar will develop a nasty bitter taste), then pour over your lettuce. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, then top with the two poached eggs.

Bon appétit mes chéris!!

Calls for cake

On a Sunday afternoon in January, it is very important to bake an apple cake.Especially if the sun is shining, which it doesn’t often do in Seattle, and if you can open the front door for an hour or two and your dog can sit on the stoop without his tiny, ridiculous Polarfleece coat, which is a minor miracle, because he is a major sissy about cold weather. And especially if the apple cake in

Nijiya:Shop



Did you ever walk along the beach and see shiny little crabs scurrying sideways in the sand? Or maybe you saw crispy sun-bleached crab shells nestled among the driftwood, seaweed and beach glass that had washed up on the shore? Did it ever occur to you that those little critters would make a tasty snack? If not, you're not alone. Rather than buy any, I thought taking a picture would do the trick...



Lee and and I were anything but crabby this weekend. We enjoyed a leisurely Sunday afternoon at the Nihonmachi Street Festival in Japantown . Mostly this gives us an excuse to eat Asian style street food, listen to Taiko drums, watch Polynesian style dancing, and poke around some of our favorite stores in Japantown. We have lots of stores we like in Japantown, but my top two picks are Ichiban-Kan where I find cheap kitchen utensils and gadgets galore and Nijiya, a Japanese mini-market with everything from fresh shiso leaves to sushi grade fish.



There isn't an aisle in Nijiya not worth exploring. Usually I find something I haven't seen before. On this trip we discovered a couple of things, including beautiful boxes of bath salts promising Japanese style mineral baths at home. But perhaps my favorite aisle in any Asian market is the snack food aisle. I'm not a big snack food eater but I love seeing what other folks like to snack on. While I had seen crispy little fish, wasabi peas and dehydrated squid before, I have to admit, these crabs were a new one on me.



Nijiya

1737 Post St

San Francisco

415-563-1901



Ichiban-Kan

22 Peace Plaza

San Francisco

415-409-0472

A tour of the "antiquaires"

Michelle and I wandered at the local antique shops in search of ... temptation.

Michelle found this beautiful set of wine glasses for 8 that I gave as a gift for their kind hospitality. The wine carafe that you see in the back of the glasses has a very cute shape. It is carved glass circa 1930; there are Champagne glasses, red wine glasses and white wine glasses, plus a wine carage and a water pitcher. I suggested she uses silver tumblers as water glasses.
Jean-Pierre served panisse as an appetizer. It is presented as a cylinder and it is made of chick pea flour. It is a Marseille speciality, and once the slices are cut, they must be fried.
It is tasty and perfect with a salad of tomatoes.
The main course was yet another handsome presentation by Jean-Pierre: Cod loin portions served with a citrus sauce and spring vegetables.
He had taken the time to cut thin filaments of orange skins that he cooked (Jean-Piere as many good chefs, does not share his recipes!!) and served on top of the fish, that had been baked. The sauce was incredible!






We had roquefort cheese for dessert, served with a red sweet wine, Maury, served chilled. Surprising and very interesting!




Finally, we had small financiers, which are a classic French cake made with powdered almonds instead of flour, plus melted butter, sugar, and egg whites. He used the same pans as he had used the day before for the pinapple small pound cakes.
We had an excellent Armagnac.






Happy to report

Alright, guys.Do you remember that chickpea salad? The one that makes such a good lunch? The one that has five ingredients and takes five seconds to make, and that tastes ten times better than you expect it to? Well, I’ve just met its Italian cousin, and I can’t wait to introduce you. There are no chickpeas involved, but the feeling is the same, and I think you two are going to really hit it

Everything I Ate: Book Review


When I first started looking at food blogs I found that they fell into three categories, the good, the bad and the ugly. Lots of ugly. So many people seemed to be just "documenting dinner". They took bad pictures of mundane meals and then painstakingly described them. Blech! What was the point of that?

But then I changed my mind. I read Tucker Shaw's book, Everything I Ate A year in the life of my mouth. On a dare, Shaw documented everything that he ate, in admittedly not great photographs and minimalist notes that revealed only what he ate and with whom.

When I first heard about the book, I wondered what it would be like, a novelty? a joke? a journal? I was surprised to find much more meaning than I expected. The book reminded me of that quote from the famous French gourmet Brillat-Savarin, "tell me what you eat, and I will tell you who you are".

Like a cross between a parlour game and a cultural anthropology textbook, reading Everything I Ate A year in the life of my mouth is a new way of learning about a person, a culture, and all sorts of places in time. It made me reflect on all kinds of things; what we eat, the politics of how much we eat, where we eat. And at the same time it seemed to prove that what James Beard said was true, "food is our common ground, a universal experience."

Browsing the book became an addictive pleasure. I found myself noticing the little things--like what he ate for breakfast and the late night bowls of cereal. I looked up holidays to see where he had been, I recognized locations, restaurants and meals of my own too. What a cool book!

Note: Later this week I'll post my interview with author Tucker Shaw, so stay tuned...

le Jardin

tomatoes and nasturtiums



Never thought I would be one of those people who got excited about gardening. Well, maybe excited isn't exactly the right word. I should say I'm satisfied with gardening.
Surprisingly, the apricot tree produced some fruit. We thought it was sickly, so we're happy to report that it isn't. Apricot clafouti this weekend!
Everything else is coming along. S L O W L Y it seems, when I look at the size of the gigantic tomato plants in the other garden plots around ours. What are they using on their plants to get them to grow so freakin' huge?



little olives


baby grapes


the dog, passed out after running around the garden

Gremolata Chicken: Recipe


Gremolata sounds like a character out a Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale. Perhaps Gremolata could be a princess? Or a witch? Or even an enchanted kingdom? But no, gremolata is a garnish made of lemon peel, garlic and parsley. Some versions include anchovy or rosemary as well.

Gremolata is traditionally served as a garnish with Osso Buco. In Italian osso means bone and buco means hole. Osso Buco is a dish made with a veal shank bone which has a large marrow filled "hole". What gremolata means I have no idea.

What I do know is that the pungent raw flavors of gremolata "brighten" up a long-simmered dish such as Osso Buco. Versions of it are used with different kinds of soups and stews as well. Gremolata is always used as a garnish after a dish is done, but I recently started musing about all sorts of other things you could do with gremolata in recipes. By adding another ingredient or two it becomes a great addition to meatballs, or a topping for pasta or fish, even a marinade for seafood or chicken. Are you seeing a gremolata cookbook? Ok, maybe it's just me!

Who doesn't love a lemony roast chicken? There are version of lemon roast chicken that use a whole or a cut up bird, but I like butterflying a chicken before roasting it because flattening allows it to cook much more evenly not to mention quickly. It's a definite comfort food. By adding the juice of the lemon, a splash of olive oil and a pinch of salt and pepper to gremolata you can make a terrific lemon chicken. Of course, if you like you could call it Princess Gremolata Chicken.

Note: this recipe goes great with roast potatoes, by peeling the potatoes and chopping them into thumb-sized pieces and putting them in a pan with a little olive oil you can roast them while cooking the chicken.

Gremolata Chicken
serves 4
1 lemon, rind (no pith!) and juice
3 cloves of garlic
1/4 c parsley
1 T olive oil
1 t salt
pepper to taste
1 chicken (2 1/2-4 1/2 lbs)

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. In the food processor pulse the lemon rind, garlic, parsley and salt. Add the lemon juice, olive and pepper. This will be used as a marinade so if some of the lemon remains in strips that's fine. Place chicken in a large plastic bag, add the marinate and seal. Marinate in the fridge for at least one hour, ideally 24 hours if you've got the time, but I never seem to...

Slice the chicken along the backbone. Flatten the bird with the palm of your hand. Pat dry and place skin side up on a rack set in foil-lined pan. Bake at 450 degrees for around 30 minutes or until juices run clear or temperature reads 180 degrees. Time is dependent upon the size of the chicken. Let stand for 5 minutes before cutting into quarters or halves.

Enjoy!

Halloween Chocolate: Michael Recchiuti

Recchiuti Halloween Chocolates
Have you noticed that Halloween has become a major commercial holiday? I'd complain except that I am completely beguiled by the marvelous creations in the October edition of Martha Stewart Living magazine. I actually got a sneak peek at the photos for this issue when I was in New York last year. That chocolate cake with the green snake has been haunting me ever since!

If I need one more thing to put me in the Halloween spirit it's this, Michael Recchiuti's adorable Jack o'Lantern decorated Halloween motif chocolates. They are filled with burnt caramel, one of the most popular flavors. A box of eight chocolate confections is $19. Any excuse is just fine to indulge in Recchiuti chocolates and these little sweets are more cute than creepy. But treat yourself soon, they are available only until October 31.

Burnt caramel is something Michael Recchiuti clearly enjoys playing with, it ends up as a sauce, coating nuts, and even in ice cream. It really is the flavor of Fall as far as I'm concerned, a little bitter, a little sweet and whole lot delicious.

The Answer to a Steamy Question



It didn't take long for Steve to guess which piece of kitchen equipment I used for those beautiful vegetables below. I know purists would prefer stovetop steaming, perhaps with a bamboo basket, but I love my Seb steamer. It has two compartments, so I can steam different dishes at the same time. It has a digital timer system and also automatically keeps the food warm once it's steamed.

I don't use many recipes for this type of cooking; once you have a good understanding of how the machine works, you can easily create your own dishes with whatever you have on hand. I usually add a lot of herbs and use some flavored salt on whatever I'm steaming, and put the machine on the windowsill when the weather allows it.

Photo du Jour


Occasionally I deviate from my plain yogurt and honey routine and have sugary, wonderful Nutella on toast for my petit déjeuner.
Not the healthiest of breakfasts, but hey, at least it's whole grain bread....

Favorite Things:Moo cards


Have you seen these? They are mini cards you can make from your own photos. On the reverse side you can have any text printed you like, space permitting.

I used some of my favorite food photos that are loaded up at flickr, and made them into business cards. Not to brag or anything, but they have been a big hit. Everyone seems to want one and it's fun seeing who chooses what.

Now the company that makes them, Moo, is also selling notecards. They are a bit pricey, but I just might order them anyway....

Lemon Sticky Buns

buns with sugar bowl

Hey New York, let's just skip from 50F to 89F ... it's not like anyone will miss the 60s and 70s. That's a direct quote, actually, from a facebook update, but it's the flippin' truth. I went on a bike ride yesterday over the GW bridge and up to Peirmont and Nyack New York and it turned out that I was giving myself a slow roast for four hours. And now I have a sneaking suspicion that the tan lines I acquired are going to be permanent for the year. But really, that's okay. I prefer cycling in 90 than in 30. And anyway, I had these sticky buns to think about. Or rather, to remember fondly. And to pine for. So even if it feels like the height of summer, lemon-infused sticky buns scream spring.

2010-04-081

It's not often that I'm on the frontend of a trend, but I have a feeling these might be the next bandwagon. I love Apartment Therapy's The Kitchn, it's probably my most-read blog. The one I keep up with on a regular basis. And for good reason, because now they've given us Sticky Lemon Rolls with Lemon Cream Cheese Glaze. And these are perfect for spring. They were also perfect, incidentally, for Easter breakfast. I made them at my Grandmother's house the night before we were to prepare a feast for 11. I found them to be light, and citrusy, of course, but not overly dense the way a traditional sticky bun can be. Some reviews on The Kitchn have called them too sweet, but they are sticky buns, after all, and I found the original measurements to be fine. Consider yourself warned if you're the type who normally likes to cut sugar in half.

bun on sill

One thing I would say for the filling however, is that depending on the size of your lemons, you might want to adjust how much juice you use, or it can get really, really runny. So if you have large lemons, perhaps start with half the indicated amount, and add more as needed. Actually, same goes for the cream cheese glaze, depending on how much run you like in your topping. But that's an easy adjustment to make, and shouldn't throw anything off.

2010-04-08

A couple of important discoveries I made at my grandmothers house: she has a beautiful collection of china teacups and saucers. Flowered and patterned and gold-lined, I was in love with them all. I think you can tell. I also re-discovered that it is much nicer to cook in a normal-sized kitchen. Two people (more even!) could be in there at the same time without getting elbowed and having toes stepped on. After so many years of apartment living, it's always a nice break to be in an actual, honest to goodness house. It reminds me of how much I sometimes miss, well, room. Easter weekend was like a cooking retreat. I got to cook in a real kitchen, photograph in an enclosed porch with wooden tables and slate cooling plates, in beautiful natural light, and actually have more than two people to consume the finished product. I already can't wait for next time.

bun with fork

Sticky Lemon Rolls with Lemon Cream Cheese Glaze
Adapted from Faith Durand's recipe on The Kitchn

For the Dough:

1 envelope active dry yeast (.25 ounces, or 2 1/2 teaspoons)
3/4 cup milk, warmed, but not hot (about 100 F, but just heat it a little in the microwave)
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, very soft
1/4 cup white sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
4 1/2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
2 lemons, zested
2 large eggs

For the Sticky Lemon Filling
1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon freshly-ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon powdered ginger
2 lemons, zested and juiced, the juice of each lemon kept separate
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, also very soft

For the Lemon Cream Cheese Glaze
4 ounces cream cheese, softened
Juice of 1 lemon
Zest of 1 lemon
1 cup powdered sugar

You can choose to use a stand mixer for the dough or to do it by hand. I did it by hand at my grandmother's house. In a large bowl, pour the warmed milk, then sprinkle the yeast over it and let it bloom for a couple of minutes. Beat in the softened butter, sugar, vanilla and one cup of the flour either with a hand-held mixer, or with the paddle attachment of a standing mixer. Next add the salt, nutmeg and lemon zest, then the eggs and enough of the rest of the flour to make a dough. If using a hand-held mixer, you'll have to stop mixing once you add a good bit of the rest of the flour, and switch to using your hands to knead the dough.

Once the flour has been added, if you're using a stand mixer switch to the dough hook and have at it for about 5 minutes. If you're hand kneading, turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic.

Spray the bowl with vegetable oil (Pam for instance) and return the dough to the bowl. Roll the dough around a bit so it is evenly coated in the oil. Cover with a kitchen towel and let rise until doubled. This should take about an hour.

For the filling:

Mix the sugar, nutmeg and ginger together in a small bowl. Then add the lemon zest and crumble it around a little with your fingertips until it feels like wet sand. Start by stirring in the juice of half a lemon in order to make sure that the filling doesn't get too runny. You can add more if you need it. Keep the other lemon's juice aside for the glaze.

Grease a 9x13" baking dish and set aside. Return the dough, once risen, to a lightly floured surface and pull and stretch it out until it's a large rectangle, about 10x15". Spread the softened butter evenly on top, then pour the lemon-sugar mixture over it. Hopefully you were careful in adding your lemon juice and it's not too terribly runny! Roll the dough up tightly from a long end, then cut the roll into 12 even pieces. Place the buns cut side up in the baking dish. It's okay if a little of the filling seeps out during this last rise. Cover the dish with a kitchen towel and allow to rise for another hour, until puffy and doubled. It will bake into a kind of crust, which is never a bad thing. If you want to make them ahead, you can refrigerate at this point overnight (covered tightly, of course!). The next morning, simply remove them from the fridge and let them rise for an hour before proceeding.

Preheat the oven to 350F, with a rack in the center of the oven. Plot your risen rolls in there and bake for 35 minutes, until golden brown and cooked through. In the meantime, make the glaze.

For the Glaze:

With a mixer or in the bowl of a small food processor, cream the cream cheese until it's fluffy, then add about half of the reserved lemon juice. Add the powdered sugar and continue to blend until creamy. If you want a runnier glaze, add more of the lemon juice.

As the rolls come out of the oven, drizzle the glaze over the top, then sprinkle the remaining zest over the top again. Serve warm to giggles of delight.

Photo du Jour - To The Tower!


A rooftop view of Ventenac en Minervois on a dark and stormy evening.

Free Tea Cookbook Offer




Here's a cool idea. Celestial Seasonings is offering a free recipe booklet with recipes that go with tea and that include tea, such as delicious sounding treats like Vanilla Rose Poundcake and Pear Ginger Tea Cake. Some of the recipes were contributed by renowned local pastry chef, Emily Luccheti. The catch? The recipes include new Celestial Seasonings teas that are being launched to help raise awareness of the risk of heart disease. It's part of the Go Red for Women campaign. Perhaps you've seen the red dress logo this month?

You might not have known that one in three women dies of heart disease, making it the number one killer of women in the United States. But I'm sure you do know that drinking tea has great health benefits, providing antioxidants which are wonderfully heart-healthy.

I haven't tried the teas yet, Black Cherry Pomegranate and Vanilla Rose Decaf but they both contain black tea and rooibos, which is a favorite of mine. Rooibos also known as "red bush" comes from Africa and has a lovely red color. Red bush and honey bush both have become more popular in the last couple of years so it's nice to see bigger companies including them in their teas. Raising awareness can be a deliciously good thing.

You can request a copy of the dessert booklet (while supplies last) of "From Teapot to Table Top" by calling 1-866-211-0374 (toll-free). Please note: due to the overwhelming requests for "From Teapot to TableTop" some callers may experience a "This Voicemail Box is Full" message. Please know that there are plenty of cookbooks and all callers need to do is try their call again later or press "0".

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The Future of Chinese Food continued

Chinese food panel
On January 23rd the San Francisco Professional Food Society presented an insightful panel discussion on the future of Chinese cuisine in the US, along with The Asia Society and the Chinese Cultural Center. The panelists were (seated from left to right) Martin Yan, TV host and master chef author of 26 cookbooks, Alex Ong, Betelnut partner and executive chef, Albert Cheng, former three-term president of the Chinese Culture Center; Nicole Mones, author of the novels Lost in Translation, A Cup of Light, and The Last Chinese Chef, and moderator Olivia Wu, currently chef at Google and a former writer for the San Francisco Chronicle.

One of the hurdles to great Chinese food in the US has been immigration policies. In a discussion about Chinese immigration to the US, it was mentioned that opening a Chinese restaurant was often the only opportunity for Chinese immigrants. Often those restaurateurs were not professional chefs, and as a result did not have the same passion for the cuisine as you might expect. According to Yan, immigrants who open Chinese restaurants rarely have been trained as chefs and usually don't want their children following in their footsteps. Ong agreed, saying his parents were terribly disappointed when he told them he was becoming a chef.

Wu also pointed out that Chinese chefs are often unable to communicate with their customers so they stay in the kitchen. They don't understand branding, marketing and promotion and this holds their restaurants back.

Most of the panel spoke wistfully about the diversity of the cuisine in China and Mones complained about the sauce-driven style of cooking here that relies on heavy sauces as opposed to the subtle flavors one finds in China, where there are estimated to be between 5,000 and 10,000 different dishes. In China, she explained, there is barely enough sauce to cover the dish. Here long menus often obscure the fact that only a handful of sauces are being used.

Ong questioned the American taste level and waxed poetic about the joy of eating "the bones" something echoed by most of the panel. He complained about his customers only wanting the velveted style of chicken breast meat.

Favorite dishes among the panelists that they rarely find in the US included Beggar's chicken, red braised pork belly and broad beans with toon leaves.

A question arose as to whether we as diners are willing to pay for great Chinese food, since we have come to regard it almost as "exotic fast food" that is always cheap. On the flip side, Ong complained most Chinese restaurants choose to compete only on price disregarding elements such as service, decor and having a bar.

So what advice did the panel have for American eaters?
• Keep trying new places
• Always try one or two dishes you are unfamiliar with, when you eat out
• Ask about the specialties of the house

To read the first part of this story posted last week, click here