Crêpes à la Clara



Fitting that after just having spoken about my affinity for crêpes in the city of lights, that I should travel to Spain for the weekend, only to make crêpes for the first time with my cousins!

Madrid has never signified very much for me, so I am grateful to discover it through the eyes of family that lives there.  It is a beautiful and sunny city (I note sunny because Paris in the winter can only boast of grey skies and dreary afternoons) that specializes in pane con tomate, jamon iberico, and many other splendors which I was happy to chow down on during my short but sweet stay.  Although my visit was on the underextended side, my cousin was sure to show me some of the best of what the city had to offer, which naturally included a visit to the Mercado de San Miguel, an indoor market located in the heart of the city.  Walk around and visit the numerous vendors, order a copa de vino, and nibble on some of the market's many offerings: croquetas, marinated olives or anchovies, fresh-shucked oysters and much, much more.  It's hard to have a bad time under such pleasant circumstances.



Sunday afternoon we delighted in arroz, Spanish rice which this time was prepared with various vegetables and brought out in an oversized vat for six people to indulge in.  Although I grew up on Basmati rice, I can't help but enjoy spoonfuls of soft and flavorful round white rice that is both soaked and coated in rich broth and white wine.


But perhaps the delight of my stay was learning that my cousin's daughter (which would make her my second cousin, correct?) is an avid cook and has even started, at the age of ten, making her own recipes!  So Clara, the lovely cook in the photo below, showed me how to make crêpes, which I learned is simple so long as you remember to keep the crêpe as thin as possible, to ensure even and golden cooking.  While I enjoyed my crêpe with maple syrup and sliced bananas, Clara swears by Nutella.  However, this French-style pancake can certainly be enjoyed as a savory dish: prepare the crêpes exactly the same way and fill with such ingredients as grated cheese, sauteed mushrooms, roasted vegetables, ham, or some or all of the above. The portions we made together are for 3-4 servings so I reduced them to be suitable for one crêpe.


If you're making a sweet crêpe, you will likely want to pair it with a sweet wine, such as a Muscat, or a fruity white, such as a Vouvray.  And even with a savory crêpe, a sweet white such as Riesling should pair well.  Enjoy mes amis!




Crêpes à la Clara - serves 1
15g (1/2 oz) butter
30 g (1 oz) flour
6 cL (2 fl. oz) milk - whole or skim is up to you, you can also substitute water
olive oil for the pan
fillings as you wish, some ideas are: nutella, honey, sugar, butter, banana & maple syrup, or ham, cheese, & mushroom for a savory filling

1. Combine the flour and milk in a bowl.
2.  In a saucepan, melt the butter.  Once melted, add it to the flour and stir with a whisk to combine.  You want the consistency to be like scrambled eggs before they have been cooked.  If you find it is too thick, add more milk to thin it out.
3.  Dab a cotton swab or a tissue in olive oil, and wipe it all over a crêpe pan or a large saute pan.  Heat over medium heat.
4.  Add batter to the pan, and immediately swirl the batter so that it evenly covers all of the pan.
5.  Once bubbling and cooked through (usually about 2-3 minutes), flip over with the help of a thin spatula and cook through on the second side, about 1-2 minutes more.
6.  Slide onto a plate, cover with desired fillings, and fold to form a wrap.  Drizzle with extra fillings if desired, and enjoy while hot.


Thank you Claricita!














 

Photo of the Day


Door in Aigne

Twas a Dark and Stormy Night....

Well, not really.
Dark and windy night, yes!

Luckily I have a couple portions of Boeuf Bourguignon in the freezer that I made a week ago. I'm not in the mood to cook.
On the side, instead of polenta or steamed potatoes, tonight I'm making a side of Ebly.

Ebly? What the hell is Ebly, you might ask.
Those of you living in France (or the rest of Europe?) will most likely know about these little grains of pre-cooked wheat.
Ebly - Tendre Blé
I don't know how processed this stuff is. The box and the website says it's full of fiber, vitamins and minerals. Doesn't matter to me, I love it!

There's even a recipe on their site for Ebly Carbonara that is surprisingly quite good. (sorry, it's in French)

Salmon-Egg Wrap w/ Parsley and Creme Fraiche



Salmon-Egg Wrap with Parsley and Creme Fraiche

Ok, I have to tell you honestly that I have been mentally working on this dish for the past two days. I knew I wanted to wrap the scrambled eggs in salmon to make this look more like a sandwich (based on my new-found obsession with sandwiches). The distinct flavor of eggs is brought out nicely with the parsley, and goes so well with the silky texture and salty ocean flavor of smoked salmon. Top with a dollop or two of creme fraiche, and the combination of flavors becomes fantastic.

You can usually find creme fraiche in the dairy section of your grocery store, but if it's more convenient cream cheese or mascarpone would work well also.

In any case, it's pretty quick to put together and definitely worth it for a satisfying brunch.

Scrambled Eggs w/ Parsley, Smoked Salmon, and Creme Fraiche  - serves 1
1 handful fresh parsley, chopped, plus extra sprigs for garnish
2 slices smoked salmon
2 eggs
1 tablespoon whole milk or cream
1 dollop of butter (I consider this to be slightly less than a tablespoon)
1 tablespoon creme fraiche

1. In a small bowl, combine the eggs, milk or cream, and a sprinkle each of salt and pepper. Beat together with a fork. On a plate, lay out one or two slices of smoked salmon.

2. Heat a small skillet over medium low heat, and add the butter. Once the butter is melted and hot, pour in the egg mixture. With a wooden spoon or spatula, gently fold the eggs over each other (don't scramble - this takes all the air out of the eggs and deflates them). Once the eggs are about halfway ready (there should still be some parts that are very runny), toss in half of the chopped parsley, and fold the eggs over until all of the mixture has blended and there are no more very runny parts.

3. Place the egg mixture in the center of the salmon slices. Fold the salmon over to make a wrap. Top the folded salmon with two dollops of creme fraiche, and place the remaining parsley around the wrap.

I would advise having some bread handy to help you eat the last couple of bites.

Merci, bonne dégustation!






Last Minute Thanksgiving Help!


Uh oh! Are you still looking for help? Recipes? Ideas? Help is on the way.
Here are some resources:

Turkey help!
Turkey Talk-Line
1-800-BUTTERBALL (288-8372)
open from 6 am until 6 pm CST

What wines go with turkey?
Beaujolais Nouveau
Pinot Noir
Cotes du Rhone

Instant Appetizer
Chutney Spread
6 ounces chutney, any flavor
1/2 lb package cream cheese

Spoon chutney over cream cheese and serve on a cheese plate with assorted crackers.

More Recipes?
Thanksgiving Recipe Box: The Splendid Table
Recipes & Cooking Tips: Epicurious

Learn about the holiday?
Laura Schenone's Thanksgiving timeline

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

Joël Robuchon and American cooking gadgets


I don't have many "written by famous chef" cookbooks, but I was intrigued by an interview on Zagat with Joël Robuchon about the above book, which looks like this in its UK edition:

The first thing that piqued my curiousity is that I can see from the description that the book is translated, but I can't quite figure out from which work in French.

I was also interested in your reactions to what Robuchon says in the interview about the difference between the number of kitchen gadgets in American and French homes:
"One thing I have always noticed throughout my years is that Americans always have so much more equipment in the home than the French do. Even now. You walk into an American home kitchen and they have a garlic peeler, an egg cracker and all sorts of gadgets. The average French home cook has a pan, a knife and a whisk."


Do you agree with him?

Posters and 2008 Calendars !



A World in a PAN presents its "Fruits" posters and "2008 Deserts" desk calendars!
The poster features pictures of fruits and desserts, and the calendar a selection of 12 of our season desserts.
If you want to know more or you want to get one, contact Jean-Louis@aworldinapan.com

Photo du Jour


First it was the wine, now she's going after my croissant!

Pigeon update & Photo frenzy (LOL)

Sailing down the Seine.






I am soooo bored ... is this Paris???

Wait, wait, cannot get you in the frame...

















Allow me to make a little fun of the frantic photographers with whom Nora and I shared our Seine cruise ...

There were several groups of Chinese from the Mainland on the cruise boats, and they took so many pictures that I think they wore out the views!

We're not sure they saw anything actually, as the only activity on the boat was taking pictures and stretching and bending, as if they were doing Tai Qi Chuan and taking pictures as the same time!! LOL

Photo du Jour - Café des Deux Moulins


Sacrebleu!

Café des Deux-Moulins, the famous café from the film Le Fabuleux Destin d'Amélie Poulain, has been painted Pepto-Bismol pink!

La Couleur Rouge
























Splashes of cardinal, vermilion and crimson. Hints of ruby, cerise and scarlet.
The Languedoc-Roussillon blushes in many shades of la couleur rouge.

Choy to the World: Recipe


Isn't baby bok choy appealing? It has such a graceful, almost elegant look about it. I cooked up some baby bok choy from my organic produce delivery just last night and it was as delicious to eat as it was pretty to look at. Bok choy is in the same family as cabbage but has a milder flavor. It's a good source of both vitamin C, vitamin A and calcium. It's available year round, though Fall and Winter are when it is most prevalent. Because it is so widely available and inexpensive to boot, it makes a good vegetable to get to know.

Baby bok choy is easy and fast to cook, just stir fry, steam or saute it. The delicate flavor shouldn't be overshadowed by heavy sauces; it's delicious plain or with a splash of Chinese flavorings such as soy sauce, oyster sauce or garlic. You can serve it whole or sliced up, but I find cutting it into halves or even quarters is easiest. You want the crispy base to cook quickly so the leafy greens don't overcook.

I realize I haven't posted any recipes in a while. The truth is I've been working on a special recipe development project and it's been taking up both my time and my creative juices. But last night I took a break and threw together a Chinese inspired meal. I dare say the baby choy might have been the tastiest treat, definitely a keeper as far as the recipe went. So here goes...

Tasty Baby Bok Choy
serves 2-3

4-6 baby bok choy
1 Tablespoon mild flavored oil (canola, grapeseed or rice bran)
1 clove garlic, minced
2 Tablespoons chicken broth ( or vegetable broth, if vegetarian)
1 Tablespoon soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon sugar
sesame oil

Rinse the bok choy throughly to get all the grit off. Do not dry. Cut each bok choy into quarters, lenthgwise. Heat a medium non-stick skillet. Add the garlic and the bok choy. Stir fry for about two minutes over medium heat. Add the broth, soy and sugar and continue cooking, covered for a minute then uncover and let the liquid reduce. When tender-crisp sprinkle with a little sesame oil and serve.

Enjoy!

Ethel's Grill: Restaurant Review


Before my trip to Oahu this month I exchanged email with Reid of Ono Kine Grindz. Despite being super-busy with work, Reid graciously put together a list of restaurants for me to try during my week vacation. I am very grateful for his fantastic recommendations! Next time you plan a trip, do yourself a favor and visit some blogs based in the location you are planning to visit--you will end up with some great tips, I guarantee it.

One of the places Reid recommended was Ethel's Grill. You can find Reid's post about Ethel's and see his series of photos here.

Ethel's Grill is located in an industrial area on Kalihi Street just off the Nimitz. Parking is difficult as is finding the place--a true hole-in-the-wall. The walls are papered with newspaper clippings, many of them about Hawaii-born former sumo champion Konishiki. While I didn't notice any sumo wrestlers, some of the menu items came in "sumo size". The clientele seemed to be mostly blue-collar workers. The menu is unusual in that all the meals include rice, soup, salad and a drink. Before you can even order you are served ice tea.

The soup was quite delicious, a bit like a combination of egg drop soup and miso soup. The salad was a crunchy iceberg salad but dressed with a homemade parsley dijon dressing. It was very tasty and not surprisingly available for sale. Even though our meal included soup and salad, we felt compelled to try the Tataki appetizer ($4). The tataki consisted of very lightly seared ahi dressed in a soy ponzu sauce with slivers of soy marinated garlic and garnished with radish and bean sprouts. It was tangy and meaty and succulent.

We also had the mahi mahi which was dipped in beaten egg and fried. The best dish of all may have been the Garlic Chicken which was really mochiko chicken (see the last post for more about mochiko chicken) pan fried and served with a thick teriyaki style garlic sauce. It was the stuff you dream about, crispy, toothsome, saucy and gave me shivers it was so good! The rest of our time in Honolulu we debated going back for more of it. Sheepishly I must admit, we were too chicken to order the pig's feet soup that was recommended to us by some diners we met a few nights earlier.

As in all the lunch plate/drive-in style places we ate at, the place was busy, the staff harried, yet so nice and friendly. The proprietor smiled to see us taking pictures of the food and told us the tataki was on the house. Have I mentioned how much I love Hawaii?

Ethel's Grill
232 Kalihi St.
Honolulu
Mon - Sat 6 am - 2 pm
808.847.6467

Mom's Blueberry Tart: Recipe


Blueberries are intense. Intense color that stains your mouth purple. Intense sweet and tangy juice so rich it almost tastes like wine. Unlike other fruit, such as apples, they don't even need vanilla or cinnamon to give them a boost. They are the boost. The intensity of blueberries make them a nice kind of accent to other dishes, like in a fruit salad or a salsa. They are also great as polka dots in pancakes and muffins but a little trickier in pie. Just too intense. That's why I love blueberry tarts.

I know I just wrote about blueberries. But when you pick a bucket full you end up with about four pounds, which is a lot of blueberries! So in addition to taking my own advice when it comes to using blueberries I also called my mom for a recipe for a blueberry tart. This particular recipe uses three cups of blueberries and combines them with a sour cream filling that bakes up like a custard. Plopping blueberries into a custardy base, a pastry cream or clafouti seems like the right way to handle them.

I am hopeless when it comes to pie crust. I just don't have the pie crust mojo. So I rely on recipes with graham cracker crusts, and press-in crusts. This recipe has a crust that is no fail. Really. I swear. I'm going to use it as my default pie crust from now on. My mom cut the recipe out of a newspaper over twenty years ago so I apologize for not being able to attribute it properly. I have simplified the instructions somewhat.

Mom's Blueberry Tart

Pastry:
1 1/4 cups flour
1/4 lb butter (1 stick)
2 Tablespoon sour cream

Filling:
2 egg yolks
1/3 cup sour cream
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup flour
3 cups blueberries

Cut the ingredients with a pastry blender or with two butter knives. Press into a 9 inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Make sure the crust goes up the sides of the pan and try to pat it into the pan as evenly as you can. Prick the crust with a fork and bake at 375 degrees for 20 min, cool.

Wash the berries and let them dry on paper towels. Beat together all the remaining ingredients. Spread berries into the crust and pour liquid filling over the berries. Bake at 350 degrees for one hour or until lightly browned on top.

Enjoy!

Happy Birthday Julia!


Today is Julia Child's birthday. She was one of the people most responsible for encouraging Americans to cook classic French food at home. I loved watching Julia Child on television. She was the antithesis of the television chefs of today. She wasn't pretty, she wasn't graceful and she wasn't phony. She was the real deal. Her funny voice and sometimes awkward manner made her someone everyone could relate to. She made mistakes and she fixed them right there for everyone to see. She was no Martha Stewart, that's for sure.

One of my favorite shows was her crepe episode. She made entree crepes, dessert crepes, stacked crepes, filled crepes and demonstrated just how easy they are to make. I cook more Italian food than French food, but there are a few French dishes I have no fear of thanks to Julia. One is clafouti and another is crepes. This morning to honor Julia I made her recipe, instead of mine. It's perfect, of course. Thanks Julia, for being you.




Note: The only change I made to the recipe was to make half a batch instead of a whole batch. While crepes freeze well I just don't have the space at the moment.

Julia's Crepes
makes 6-8 crepes (double recipe for a full batch of 12)

1/2 cup cold water
1/2 cup milk
2 large eggs
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 Tablespoons previously melted butter

Whirl all the ingredients together in the blender. Julia suggests straining through a sieve but I just refrigerate the mixture overnight instead. In either case, do refrigerate for at least 2 hours to allow the flour particles to swell.

Ladle approximately a quarter cup of batter into a non-stick crepe or omelette pan (I use a 10 inch pan, but 8 inch would be fine too) and tilt the pan to cover the bottom with a thin, even coating. Cook the crepe until small bubbles form on the surface and it is barely firm, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Flip and repeat until crepe is done. Use crepes immediately or wrap well and freeze for up to one month. Thaw while still wrapped at room temperature.

Enjoy!

Apricots for dessert!

Mmmmm, tempting .... ? Do you surrender?
A delicious apricot clafoutis recipe is awaiting for you!
The smoothness and softness of the batter is perfect with the acidity and softness of the fresh apricots. It's light and fluffly!

Cinnamon Raisin Walnut Bread


It's noticeably colder here, now.  Although honestly it's been too warm for November.  The trees in Central Park are still clinging to their leaves, determined until the first real frost forces them to let go.  And in the morning, the air actually seems crisp, even fresh, (even frigid?) which is something of an anachronism in a big city.  The end of November always sneaks up, pretending at first to fall in line with October.  But in the end, it's always a lie and suddenly winter has slipped in through the back door.  I don't think I'm ever ready for winter.  In Colorado, at least, winter means skiing and you don't even have to go without sunshine.  New York always seems to forget that it's a pedestrian city in the winter, and plows build up snowdrifts on the sidewalks so large that they could support armies of barracked down snow-ball fighters.  Ugh.


But then, there's the benefit of turning on the oven for hours without driving up the temperature of the apartment to unbearable heights.  Which is always nice for bread making.  Unlike the last experiment in cinnamon-raisin, this isn't a swirl.  The cinnamon is baked right into the bread, which is dotted with raisins and walnuts.  It comes from Peter Reinhart's The Bread Baker's Apprentice and although good, I think I prefer Dorrie's recipe to be perfectly honest.  But I'm never one to pass up a slice of warm cinnamon-raisin slathered with peanut butter, especially on a blistery day.  


Cinnamon Raisin Walnut Bread

Makes 2 loaves, slightly adapted from Peter Reinhart

Dry Ingredients:

3 1/2 cups unbleached bread flour
4 teaspoons granulated sugar
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
1 1/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon

Wet Ingredients:

2 teaspoons active dry yeast (bloomed in 1/4 cup warm water)
1 large egg, beaten slightly
2 tablespoons shortening at room temperature
1/2 cup whole milk, at room temperature
1/2 cup water at room temperature

Extras: 

1 1/2 cups raisins
1 cup chopped walnuts

Stir the dry ingredients together in the bowl of an electric mixer.  Add the wet ingredients and stir on low speed with the paddle attachment until the ingredients form a ball.

Switch to the dough hook and mix on medium speed for 6-8 minutes.  Add more flour if necessary so that the dough forms a nice ball, tacky, but not sticky.  In the last two minutes of mixing, add in the raisins and walnuts.  The dough should pass the windowpane test (which means that when you stretch it, it thins enough to become translucent to light as though you were looking through a windowpane).

Oil a large bowl and place the dough in it.  Roll the dough so that it's coated with oil.  Ferment at room temperature for 2 hours.  The dough should double in size.

Divide the dough into 2 even (or in my case, slightly uneven) pieces and form them into loaves.  To do this, spread the dough out into a flattened rectangle about 5x8 inches.  Starting from a short side, roll the dough up and pinch the seam together.  Place each piece of dough in an oiled 8 1/2 x 4 1/2 " loaf pan, seam side down.  Lightly mist the bread with more oil.  Cover loosely with plastic wrap and proof for 90 minutes until the loaves are about doubled in size.

In an oven preheated to 350, with the rack positioned in the middle, place the loaf pans on a baking sheet.  The pans should not touch.  Bake for 20 minutes, then rotate the pans and bake for about another 20 minutes.  Remove the bread from the pans and cool on a cooling rack.  Enjoy!

*     *     *

I'm sending this bread to Susan of Wild Yeast for next week's YeastSpotting!


Rosier by the second

I swear, I just don’t know where the days go. I wake up one morning, and it’s Monday. Then, within what I know was only ten minutes, shazam!, it’s Sunday already. It makes me wish there were some sort of Bureau of Missing Days, or something like that. Wherever my time went, I’d like it back immediately. I had plans for it, and awfully good ones too, involving strawberries and waffles and soup

Chestnut Cookie with Buttered Apples


I like this cookie because although it posesses a sophisticated air, what with golden, glistening apples nestled cozily on a tender cookie, it's very straightforward to put together: flatten out some Chestnut Purée and lay on some sweet and buttery apple wedges that have been cooked in a skillet.  I had the idea for the apples because there's a certain je ne sais quoi about chestnuts that causes them to go so beautifully with apples, cinnamon, and nutmeg; when I eat the chestnut puree I feel like I'm eating the beginning stage of an oatmeal cookie or tarte tatin.  If this doesn't make sense, try it and then you'll see what I mean.



I think this would go wonderfully with some fresh or canned whipped cream.  Next time I make these, I'm going to whip some cream with a pinch of cinnamon and allspice to add some extra punch.

Chestnut Cookies with Buttered apples - makes 4 cookies

1 large apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 8-10 wedges
1/3-cup sugar
3 tbsp butter

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
1.  In a small skillet, melt the butter.  Once melted, add the sugar and stir until just starting to combine.  At this point lay the apples in the skillet so they are wedged close together but aren't overlapping. 


2.  Cook the apples over medium heat until the syrup is dark brown and very thick, about 40 minutes, turning the apple wedges once halfway through cooking.
3.  Meanwhile, divide the chestnut puree into four balls, and flatten them out to form cookies of about 2-inch diameter.  Spread cookies out on a lined and greased baking dish; once apples are ready, arrange them on top of the cookies so that they slightly overlap (see top photo). If there is any syrup remaining in the skillet, pour it evenly over the apples.
4.  Bake until apples have turned golden brown and slightly crsip, about 30 minutes.  Remove from oven and do not remove from baking sheet until cookies have cooled completely and have become more firm, about 30-40 minutes.


Grilled Tomato Crostini

bruschetta_

Forgive me. I'm going to bombard you with tomato recipes. Mostly because I love them, and because we have to take advantage while we can. This is actually a recipe I meant to share last month, after I returned from a visit with my sister in Chicago. She's the one with access to a grill. Oh, and a willing boyfriend who will pretty much throw anything on there that we ask him to. He's very amenable like that.

So this is a crostini, but it's grilled. The bread is grilled, the tomatoes are grilled. Grilled tomato crostini. I don't know, dudes, there's not much more to say about it right now. It's really, really good in that very simple way. Because how can grilled tomatoes be anything but delicious really. That's not even a question, you see. So have at it.

Grilled Tomato Crostini
Adopted from Food and Wine

3/4 inch-thick slices of good ciabatta bread or the like
1 clove garlic, cut in half
Olive Oil for drizzling
Salt and Pepper to taste
Handful of small basil leaves
1 pound, about 4 medium, tomatoes, quartered
1/2 pint grape of cherry tomatoes
1/2 pint small mixed heirloom tomatoes, can be halved (or you can just use 1 pint of one type)

Preheat your grill for the tomatoes. Cut out four sheets of foil large enough to accommodate 1/4 of the tomatoes each. Spread them out on a work surface and mound the tomatoes in the center of each. Drizzle them with a bit of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Fold the foil over to form tight packets.

Set the packets on the grill and cover it. They should grill over moderately high heat for about 18 minutes, or until they have softened and some of them begin to burst. Remove from the grill and, using scissors, cup open the packets and set aside.

Grill the bread until a bit charred, about 1 minute on each side. Transfer the bread to plates and rub each one with the garlic halves. Mound the tomatoes and their juices over the bread and drizzle with a bit more olive oil. Season with salt, and garnish with basil. Serve.

Free Movie Tickets!

No Reservations movie poster


Are you heartbroken that you didn't win a book earlier this week? If so, I have a consolation prize. If you live near San Francisco and would like a sneak preview pass to see No Reservations (not be confused with the Anthony Bourdain TV series), I have 20 pairs of tickets to give away.

Sneak preview:
7:30 pm Tuesday July 24st @ AMC Metreon, 101 Fourth St, San Francisco

Because I only got the tickets today, I can send them to you if you email me your mailing address NOW! But don't delay or they won't get to you in time. Also you need to show up early if you want to get in, seating is limited and not guaranteed.

I have no idea if this movie is any good, but I did love the German film it was based on called Mostly Martha and Abigail Breslin was terrific in Little Miss Sunshine so I plan on checking it out. As one of my readers pointed out--Aaron Eckhardt gave a memorable performance in Thank You for Smoking . The only thing I remember seeing Catherine Zeta Jones in was Chicago.

SORRY NO MORE TICKETS LEFT!