Fruits de saison

Years ago, every time I went shopping at the "hypermarché," I came home with some kitchen object. Big French supermarkets have increased their offer in that department, too, so I could be even more tempted now -- except that I try to get my husband and kids to do the grocery shopping as much as possible!

The other day, though, I couldn't resist this "Coupe de fruits carrée." (Yes, this does sound like a contradiction in terms, but that is what it was called.)

We had always piled our fruit onto an over-sized plate, with all of the confusion and lack of breathing space for the fruit that that implies. Now I fill up my little square fruit plate piece by piece, as artistically as possible. When it starts to empty out, I know it's time to buy fruit!

The whole family has taken to the new object, and I find my daughters rearranging the pieces from time to time to give the platter a new look.
It's also fairly compact, so it can be placed on our small kitchen table after dinner without any major effort.

Of course I usually have more than nine pieces of fruit on hand, but they wait patiently in the arrière-cuisine until their moment to shine.

Quel bel objet!

Photo du Jour - 24K Gold


Golden apricots ripening on the tree.

We're in the midst of Clafoutis Season. Also know as cherry and apricot season.

Apricots thrive in our Mediterranean climate of long, hot summers and cool, fairly wet winters. They ripen in early summer, just after the local cherries.


Here's a little tease...
the recipe will come tomorrow.

Daily Photo

This intriguing, round, stone tower was once used as an ice house.
Located in le Somail, it is the only one that still remains along the banks of the Canal du Midi.

Favorite Photos of Paris


If you haven't already seen it, check out some of my favorite photos of Paris in my guest post on Why Go Paris.

Reflections on Ratatouille

My last guessing game was indeed pretty easy, and everybody came up with the correct answer: ratatouille. Thanks to Alison for her horror story about bad ratatouille; now listen here to how to make it great.

For anybody who doesn't know about ratatouille, it is a Southern French vegetable dish made of eggplant, zucchini, bell peppers and tomatoes. I used to make a rather mediocre ratatouille with the recipe from "Les Recettes Faciles" by Françoise Bernard. Her book is one of my French cooking bibles, but some of the recipes are a little TOO facile. In her version, everything is sautéed and simmered together. As Alison pointed out in her comment, the secret to good ratatouille is to sauté everything separately.

There's only so much sautéing everything separately I can take, though: that's why I love the ratatouille recipe from Roger Vergé's excellent cookbook Les Légumes de Mon Moulin. I don't really follow the quantities, but I love his method.

While you sauté your onion, garlic and bell peppers together, you bake your zucchini and eggplant on two separate baking sheets, after drizzling them with some olive oil, until they are tender. Then you throw everything into a covered baking dish, adding the fresh tomatoes at this time, and bake it for about 30 minutes at 150°c (300°F).

For novices, here's a basic ratatouille recipe -- but apply the Vergé method to the cooking instructions.

I like to make a lot of ratatouille because it freezes well or can be the base for a number of other dishes: quiches, vegetable tarts, gratins, or terrines. It is also good served lukewarm or cold.

This time my leftovers went into a savory "clafouti." My clafouti guide, Les Clafoutis de Christophe, doesn't have a specific recipe for "ratatouille clafouti" but I used the basic recipe -- with modifications, as usual -- for his bell pepper and tomato clafouti.

Most people know clafouti as a fruit dessert, but vegetable versions make great evening suppers, or can be served elegantly as starters in individual dishes.


Summer vegetables are still around, so if you haven't made ratatouille yet this season, there's still time!

I get a glimpse

Restaurant-wise, we are entering what I call Crackdown Mode. That sounds sort of scary, I realize, as though it might involve body armor and high-tech weaponry, but what it actually means is even scarier. It means that this restaurant, this Delancey thing, is now a full-time job. Not just for Brandon, but for me, too.It feels good. It feels good to be caught up in its momentum, pulled along by

Photos du Jour - Krewe of Saint Anne

I just have time this morning to post a few pictures from yesterday. The Krewe of Saint Anne Parade was a whirl of color and characters, as usual.