Merry Christmas


I wanted to put reindeer antlers on Pancha but thought of it too late.  This is our solution. We're off to beautiful Colorado for the holidays.  Merry Christmas!

Pure Dessert

Pure Desert


I've said it before, but I'm in awe of Alice Medrich. She was an early chocolate evangelist in the Bay Area, who brought us luscious desserts and truffles, inspired by what she had tasted and learned in France. Over the past few years she has written several terrific and award-winning books on chocolate including Bittersweet, Chocolate and the Art of Low-Fat Desserts, and Chocolate Holidays.

Her latest book is a bit of a departure, it's not just about chocolate, but an exploration into the world of high quality ingredients. The chapters in Pure Dessert are focused on the flavors of Milk, Grain, Nuts and Seeds, Fruit, Chocolate, Honey and Sugar, Herbs and Spices, Flowers and Herbs, and Wine, Beer and Spirits. Intriguing, don't you think?

In each chapter is a discussion of the ingredients, the flavors and where they can take you. Best of all are the recipes, which are very simple, in part to highlight flavors and not confuse your palate. It's a celebration of the nuances that contribute to the flavors we love. Medrich is a true perfectionist with an almost scientific like approach, so you are unlikely to ever have trouble with one of her recipes. In this season of too much frosting, sprinkles and fluff, this book is refreshing. Recipes include, Cardamom Roasted Figs, Corn Tuiles with Salt and Pepper, Blackberry Buttermilk Sherbet, Hazelnut Whole Wheat Sables, White Chocolate Souffle Cakes with Chocolate Orange Sauce, and Guinness Ice Cream.

Today meet Alice Medrich at a book signing and dessert tasting(!) from noon until 2 at Fog City News

Fog City News
455 Market Street @ Fremont St
San Francisco
415.543.7400

An interlude, or what happens when she digs in her archives

Last week I was tagged—not once, but twice—for the 23rd-post-5th-sentence meme, a nifty little game that would have me dig into my archives, find my 23rd post, pull out its fifth sentence, and analyze its meaning. Now, clearly, the universe wants to see me complete this task, and so, we’re off.A bit of perusal reveals that my 23rd post is a report on the 2004 Knight family lamb roast, opening

What is Natural poultry anyway?

rubber chickens


Last week there was a flurry of comments about a post in which my Thanksgiving expert Rick Rodgers mentioned "natural" in regard to poultry. Coincidentally while shopping for chicken I had someone ask me if natural was the same as organic. I gave her the short answer, which was "no". But there's a lot more to it than that. Even reading the labels can be confusing.

Natural, according to the dictionary, means functioning or occurring in a normal way or existing in or produced by nature; not artificial or imitation. But when it comes to chicken and for that matter turkey, natural isn't what you might think. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture the label "natural" means the food contains no hormones, antibiotics or artificial ingredients and is "minimally" processed. But that doesn't prohibit processors from adding sodium, carrageenan and broth or water to the bird. Perhaps those aren't artificial ingredients, but neither are they naturally occurring in poultry at least not in the quantities that end up in the bird.

In fact, up to 15 percent of the weight of the chicken can be an injected solution of those aforementioned ingredients. The salt and broth may make the bird taste better, but it's not great for those on a low-sodium diet. According to the Truthful Labeling Coalition, the sodium added is up to 822% greater than the amount that exists in natural chicken and one single serving can contain over 25% of the recommended daily allowance of sodium for a healthy adult. Plus you pay extra for a salt and broth injected bird.

I don't know about you, but I don't want "enhanced" chicken. I want to buy the minimally processed bird that Rick Rodgers recommended and I'll enhance it myself. It just turns out it might not be the one labeled "natural". I also think everyone should know just what has been added to the bird before they buy it. Last month quite a few members of congress agreed and sent a letter to United States Department of Agriculture, asking for better labeling and that the label "natural" not be used on these injected birds. You can add your voice to the cause, here.

Smoky Citrus Tea Shrimp: Recipe


In a marriage each partner does certain things for the other. One of the things I do for Lee, my husband, is make him a pot of tea every morning. He simply cannot function without it. He rejects the idea of making it himself; when I make it he calls it "tea with the love". How I could I ever deny him that?

While I like drinking tea I don't drink it everyday as Lee does. But I do enjoy making it and I have long been fascinated with both the ritual of tea and the idea of cooking with it. Ever since making Indian style chai from scratch in college, I have tinkered around with recipes, such as Tea Smoked Chicken. When I had some powdered chai tea that was too sweet for me taste, I made some Chai Cookies with it. So I was really excited when this month's "Is My Blog Burning" event was announced with the theme (and pun) tasteTea.

I have several books about tea that include recipes, maybe three or four. One recipe really caught my eye, Smoky Tea Prawns using Lapsang Souchong tea as a sauce and cooking liquid from Tea: Essence of the Leaf. During this past week I received an offer from Adagio to try some of their teas and the tangerine flavored black tea not only sounded terrific, but seemed like the perfect thing to complement the shrimp. In the end I used both the smoky Lapsang Souchong and the tangerine tea. The tangerine tea is marvelously fragrant with large chunks of tangerine peel.

In addition to changing the tea, I also tweaked the ingredients adding some orange juice to bump up the citrus flavor. The resulting recipe is easy as can be and very impressive. Lots of tangy flavor and only minutes to prepare. Lee said it was "gourmet" and "would impress the judges on Iron Chef". Always being my biggest fan is just one of the things Lee does for me.

Smoky Citrus Shrimp
serves 2

2 handfuls salad greens
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
1 clove garlic, smashed
1 teaspoon orange zest
1 cup strong cup of Lapsang Souchong tea (I used Lapsang and tangerine tea)
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
1 Tablespoon honey
1 Tablespoon soy sauce
1 Tablespoon orange juice
10 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
orange slices for garnish

In a medium skillet, melt butter over medium heat. When butter melts, add the garlic. Saute garlic until fragrant and just beginning to turn golden. Add orange zest and stir quickly with garlic, about 15 seconds. Add tea, vinegar, honey, soy sauce and orange juice to pan and allow to come to a simmer and reduce slightly, a minute or two. Add shrimp and continue to cook until prawns are opaque and firm, cooked through.

Place a handful of greens on each plate. Serve shrimp with drizzle of sauce over the greens. Garnish with orange slices. This makes a nice starter or serve alongside peanut sauce noodles.

Enjoy!

Super Bowl Onion Dip: Recipe

onion dip

What I consider "a super bowl" is not THE Super Bowl. It's a sophisticated little serving dish from Villeroy and Boch that's perfect for serving onion dip. I'm of the opinion you can never have too many bowls. Perhaps there is a food stylist somewhere deep inside me, struggling to be free.

Recently I had a creamy mushroom soup with chopped green beans and a topping of crispy onions. It was soup based on that classic, and in my opinion somewhat disgusting, Thanksgiving side dish, the green bean casserole. But the soup was delicious, proving some classics really are good if made with great ingredients. That was my idea for this dip which, coincidentally I served at Thanksgiving this year. But I think it would be great for that other major American holiday, Super Bowl Sunday.

I basically increased the seasonings and onions in a dip recipe I found on the Whole Foods Market website, which has lots of great ideas, by the way. The dip is filled with onions, leeks and garlic, a few seasonings and a rich and a creamy base that is vegan and healthy. Ok, it's tofu. I use a "light" firm soft tofu for a myriad of recipes, when pureed it becomes a creamy bland canvas, ready for flavor. This recipe is a good one for converting tofu-haters and for those who are looking for dairy-free recipes.

Onion Dip
makes about 2 cups

1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 large onion
1 leek
3 cloves garlic
pinch salt
12 ounces soft firm tofu, drained
1 Tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Peel and cut the onion in half. Thinly slice the onion halves, you should have about 2 cups of onion slices. Slice the white part of the leek and garlic. Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat and add the olive oil. Add the onions, leeks and garlic and sprinkle with a little salt. Cook the onions, stirring from time to time to keep from sticking until brown and caramelized.

Transfer the onion mixture to the food processor and pulse a few times then add the rest of the ingredients and blend until smooth. Taste for seasonings and adjust to your liking. Chill overnight in the refrigerator and serve with vegetables, potato chips or pita chips.

Note: If your tofu is very moist you may need to slice it and drain it on paper towels.

Enjoy!

Café Press Store

I'm in the process of opening a Café Press Store that will offer greeting cards, calenders, bags and I'm not sure what else yet with some of the photos I've taken over the past six months.

This will take some time to work on but let me know what you think so far...
just click on the little button on the top right of the page.



I can also do coffee mugs, t-shirts and calendars. What do you think?

La Fête du Fromage - Trappe Echourgnac

Smoky

That was my first impression of Trappe Echourgnac.



Nutty was my second.

Which would make sense as Trappe Echourgnac is matured in walnut liqueur from the Périgord.
And that isn't the only unique aspect of this week's cheese.

Also notable is that this cow's milk cheese is produced by nuns at the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Bonne Espérance (our Lady of Good Hope) in the Dordogne.
Previously, monks made cheese at the same site, then called the Abbaye d'Echourgnac, until war interrupted their lives in 1910. A group of Cistercian nuns took over the Abbey, changed its name, took up where the monks left off and began producing this special walnut liqueur infused cheese in 1999.

Trappe Echourgnac has a heady, smoky aroma and a smooth, buttery texture. Surprisingly, even though this is a rich cheese, the flavor is quite mild. I would happily eat it again!

A robust red Cahors is a good match for this aromatic cheese.

Photo du Jour - Winter Savory


La sarriette, growing in our garden.

Winter savory is an aromatic perennial herb with a peppery, robust flavor. Some prefer its bold flavor to that of its softer flavored cousin, summer savory.
Add to creamy white beans or simmering lentils (it has properties that prevent flatulence), mix with roasted root vegetables or pair with braised pork and roasted chicken.

In Provence there is an amazing tasting sarriette infused goat's cheese called Chèvre à la Sarriette de Provence.

A Chef For All Seasons


This Summer we were introduced to chef Gordon Ramsay in Hell's Kitchen yet another food-oriented reality TV show. I admit I watched it, drawn to it like a moth to the flame. But truth be told I was more curious about the cooking than the pathetic contestants or the sadomasochistic challenges and punishments. Ramsay is a notorious yet brilliant chef with several very successful restaurants in Britain. Now we finally get a taste of Ramsay's food instead of his fury in the paperback edition of A Chef For All Seasons.

The first thing that struck me about this book is the introductions to each season. They cover the fruits, vegetables, meat and seafood and even herbs that Ramsay likes to use in his cooking. He shares how and why he prepares them. It's almost like a mini cooking course. I read every single one of the intros all the way through. I also devoured the Basic Recipes and Techniques section where you can learn his recipes for things like peach chutney, citrus confit, classic vinaigrette and flavored stock syrups.

As for the recipes themselves, they are organized seasonally as the title suggests. Some of the ingredients are not exactly mainstays of the home cook, such as woodcock, pigs feet, squab or pheasant and others frankly I never heard of such as blewit mushrooms? But plenty of the recipes do not call for exotic ingredients or preparations and the recipe instructions are straightforward and very well written.

The Summer recipes I plan on trying in the next week or so include Roasted Figs with Cinnamon Shortbreads and the Roasted Sea Bass with Chive Creme Fraiche, Baby Potatoes and Artichokes. If you'd like to get a sneak peek at the book, you can check out his recipe for Pillows of Ricotta Gnocchi with Peas and Baby Fava Beans here. There is plenty in Ramsay's book to inspire and to learn from if you are curious about the cuisine of the chef behind Hell's Kitchen.

Za'atar:Recipe


When I find a new ingredient I am intrigued. So it's not unusual for me to buy something I have absolutely no idea what to do with. Lately I have have been drawn to the Middle Eastern ingredients I've discovered in a fresh produce market. Last week I bought both a bottle of concentrated pomegranate juice and a spice called sumac.

Sumac is a plant with bright red berries. When dried and ground up they are sour and tangy, almost lemony. Sumac is the main ingredient in a spice blend called za'atar. It is composed of sesame seeds, thyme, sumac, salt and pepper. But it varies depending on who is making it. It might also include marjoram, oregano or cayenne. From what I've read za'atar actually means "thyme". It's often mixed with oil and served a dip with veggies or pita, but you can put it on almost anything, meats, eggs, potatoes, fish, salads or in a vegetable tagine. It's great sprinkled over feta cheese or over sliced white onions. I am crazy about it on toasted sourdough bread with a little butter.

You can buy za'atar in Middle Eastern grocery stores, spice store or online at your favorite spice seller but I think if you can find sumac (also available online or in Middle Eastern grocery stores) it's more fun to experiment and make it yourself. If you have difficulty finding it, at Penzeys you can get za'atar or sumac. Sumac is much cheaper at MySpicer but you have to buy in larger quantities.

Za'atar
2 Tablespoons sesame seeds
2 Tablespoons ground sumac
1 Tablespoon powdered dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon salt
pepper to taste

Roast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat for a few minutes, stirring frequently until toasty golden brown. Allow to cool, then mix with the rest of the spices.

Enjoy!

Photo du Jour

La Journée National Slow Food in les Halles in Narbonne.

We handed out dozens and dozens of delicious, creamy, Mona Lisa, Eden and Hermine potatoes that had been steamed and drizzled with olive oil.

Photo du Jour - Pickled


A big ol' jar of pickled pigs feet at Cochon Butcher.

La Fête du Fromage - Brebis de Cocagne

Hold a morsel of this runny fromage de brebis up to your nose and breathe in the warm fragrance of earth and wild mushrooms. Place it on your tongue and savor its alluring, buttery flavor.

Brebis de Cocagne oozes charisma.


It also oozes all over the plate as soon as you cut into it.

Runny, gooey, delicious cheese. Perfect for spreading on bread.

There in no way that Brebis de Cocagne could be mistaken for anything other than sheep's milk cheese - it has that typical round, tangy, brebis character. Though the soft fragrance and texture masks a surprisingly gutsy, rich flavor.
I am smitten.

The region around Albi, in the Tarn is home to the producer of this unpasteurized fromage artisanal. A glass of dry white wine such as a dry Jurançon would be a nice match with Brebis de Cocagne.

Photo du Jour


Fishing boats on the Étang de Bages.

TARTE TATIN RECIPE FRANCE part 2/2 YouTube Video VIDEOGULP !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zkxw_tIM0ZMendofvid
[starttext]
TARTE TATIN RECIPE FRANCE part 2/2 YouTube Video VIDEOGULP !

GULP - A classic recipe for Tartes Tatin - France chef - French dish -

HOMEMADE VIDEO TARTE TATIN RECIPE - FRANCE Cooking

Selection YouTube video Videogulp !
[endtext]

Brownie Points

Living in a small village of 400 people in the south of France has its advantages and its disadvantages.

Disadvantages
  • everyone, and I mean everyone, knows your business
  • your neighbors always know if you're home or not - no hiding!
  • the épicerie owner knows if you have guests arriving by how many baguettes you buy on any given day
  • very slow tractor traffic
  • can feel like a ghost town in the winter when everyone is inside, shutters closed, huddled next to the fire
  • don't expect to run a quick errand to la Poste on the other side of the village without having to stop and talk to at least three people - a normal, 10 minute trip will take at least 30 minutes, so plan accordingly

Advantages:
  • the owner of the épicerie will let you take things home without paying because she knows where to find you
  • your neighbor the winemaker will deliver a case of his excellent Muscat Sec or Viognier right to your door
  • concerts at the church are a 30 second walk down the street
  • your neighbors (who know that you suck at gardening and take pity on you ) will leave lettuce, eggplant, green beans, fava beans, zucchini, cherries, apricots and tomatoes hanging in bags from your front door
  • the Poissonerie van on Thursday, the Poultry van on Wednesday, the Fruit and Vegetable van on Monday, the Pizza van Friday and Saturday nights
  • the mailman will deliver mail addressed to "Aunt Jenny, Our Village, FRANCE" - they must figure since it came from America, it must belong to les Américains
  • delivery drivers can pretty much ask anyone who we are and where to find our house
  • you can always have a quick snack of figs, which grow everywhere
  • your Mayor writes you a very nice, complimentary letter to the powers that be, in support of you becoming a French Citizen

Last time I was dealing with bureaucracy problems, I took Lemon Bars as a 'thank you' to the Mairie. I think this time some gooey, dark chocolate Brownies are in order.
Our Mayor deserves a giant Merci.

It's good to live in a small village.

Je Suis Française

I still can't believe it.

I returned home from a shopping trip to Narbonne yesterday and the moment I walked in the house, husband held up an envelope and started singing la Marseillaise.
He must be mistaken, I thought. It's too early. The sous-préfecture said last May that it would take 1 more year to process my citizenship application and I had heard from several readers that they had to wait 2 years, 3 years, even 6 years.

I tentatively opened the envelope.

Madame,

J'ai le plaisir de vous faire savoir que vous êtes Française depuis le 30/11/2009.


Tears welled up in my eyes. I know that sounds silly, but it has been such a drawn out, paperwork-filled, frustrating journey to get here, I just can't quite believe it.
I am officially a French citizen.

The celebration has begun. Vive la France!



The Journey:
The First Few Steps Toward French Citizenship
Stumbled Already!
Picking Myself Up and Brushing Myself Off
Marseille - One More Step on the Path to French Citizenship
Life as a Stranger
French Citizenship Update
French Citizenship - One Step Closer
The Boys in Blue
French Citizenship - Chapter One Too Many to Count

Photo du Jour - Fields of Gold


Slowly but surely the vineyards here in the Minervois are being ripped up and planted with olive trees, fields of asparagus and even hay.

The Good Home Cookbook: Giveaway!




Some time ago I mentioned that the publishers of The Good Home Cookbook were looking for recipe testers. In addition to getting a first crack at the recipes, testers also got their names in the book and a copy of the book. Now the book is out and for a limited time only you can get a FREE COPY too!

The Good Home Cookbook is filled with American recipes that have been tried and tested by hundreds of home cooks. The story of how this cookbook came about is really quite interesting. This isn't a cookbook in which to find wildly new and exotic recipes, it's a solid book to refer to time and again, in the same vein as The Joy of Cooking and The Fannie Farmer Cookbook. Because America is a melting pot you'll find recipes inspired by the cuisines of many countries from Greek Baked Shrimp, to Sausage & Saurkraut Supper to Spaghetti Carbonara (which thankfully does not include cream in the recipe). I recently turned to it when looking for gingerbread cookies.

You can check out the Good Home Cookbook blog and by sending an email with your name and address to the editor, Richard Perry, you will receive a free copy of the cookbook. This offer is good through the end of November, and I imagine it is good only in the US. Get 'em while they last!

You can STILL get a free cookbook, though the publishers have reached capacity for the free cookbooks, they are running a contest for the best custom eggplant parmesan and macaroni and cheese recipe. The winners will get a free cookbook. Their name will be attributed to their recipe on the Good Home Cookbook blog and their recipe will be in a forthcoming cookbook based upon “spin-offs on the classics.” More details available on the Good Home Cookbook blog. Good luck!