Sweet Potato, Pea and Spinach Curry


One of the first things I learned to do when we moved to France was translate French recipes.

Each month I picked up copies of Cuisine et Vins de France and French Saveur at the local tabac and with my trusty French dictionary at my side I dutifully studied the names of ingredients and cooking terms, making translation notes in the margins and jotting down measurement conversions.
It's amazing how easy it is to pick up a language when the subject is something you're really interested in!

There's a great series of small, recipe packed cookbooks by Marabout for the very reasonable price of €4,95 each. I've bought two so far, one with Indian and Thai curries and one with recipes for comforting, wintery food called Tout Chaud.

I've made a few recipes from each book and one of the best so far was an aromatic, homey vegetarian curry. It is some serious comfort food! Low in calories and high in flavor and vitamins - I swear it makes you feel stronger after you've eaten it a plate of it.

The original calls for the addition of canned chickpeas, which I didn't have in the cupboard, so the recipe has been adapted to what I had on hand. Add them if you like, but this version is also fantastic!

Sweet Potato, Pea and Spinach Curry

serves 4
  • 2 tablespoons neutral oil
  • 2 onions, thinly sliced
  • 1 tablespoon mild curry powder
  • 2 teaspoons ground coriander
  • 2 teaspoons ground cumin
  • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
  • 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1 14-ounce can whole tomatoes, crushed with their juice
  • 1 teaspoon brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 4 ounces fresh baby spinach, washed
  • 1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
  • 1 cup frozen baby peas
  • plain yogurt (optional)
  1. Warm the oil in a deep pan with a lid and sauté the onions over low heat until golden brown, about 15 minutes.
  2. Sprinkle the curry powder, coriander, cumin, cayenne pepper, turmeric and salt over the onions and cook for another 1-2 minutes, stirring, until fragrant.
  3. Add the sweet potato, canned tomatoes, brown sugar and water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover the pot and cook for 15-20 minutes over low heat, until the sweet potatoes are cooked through.
  4. Add the spinach and baby peas and cook for another 2 minutes, until spinach is wilted and the peas are warmed through.
  5. Taste and correct for salt and add more cayenne if you like it really spicy.
  6. Serve with steamed basmati rice and a dollop of the optional plain yogurt.

The Final Ten - 91 Through 100

91. New Lok Kee Restaurtant in Queens, New York. This one is recommended by my husband. His eyes fill with longing whenever he thinks about their shrimp in lobster sauce, egg drop soup or wontons. He is a man who knows his Chinese food, so if you're in the neighborhood, try it out! Read the New York Times review here.

New Lok Kee
36-50 Main St (37th Ave)
Flushing, Queens
(718) 762-6048

92. New Orleans Rum made by Celebration Distillation Corporation. This is hand crafted, single barrel aged and the only rum made from Louisiana sugar cane. Incredibly fragrant and spicy-sweet, it is great on its own or as a mixer.




93. Lucques Olives. Originally from Lucca, Italy and now found mainly in the Languedoc-Roussillon, this bright green olive has a small crescent shaped stone, crunchy flesh and an incredibly soft, nutty flavour. They're picked early for curing and eating or later, after they've turned black, for olive oil. They are unlike any olive I've ever tasted, not too strong nor too salty.

94. Jambalaya. I've written about jambalaya before. When I started researching the origins of this versatile dish, it became clear that they are muddled, at best. Some say it is a Creole dish while others claim it is a Cajun dish. Some claim that it is a combination of both. I read that some believe the term Jambalaya is Louisiana French, from the Provençal "jambalaia". Others think that it derives from the Spanish jamon or the French jambon, meaning "ham," the French article "à la" and finally, "ya", of West African origin meaning rice OR it could possibly be the combining of the Creole words "Jhamba" (gift) and "laya" (rice). It can be made with various combinations of pork, chicken, duck, oysters, shrimp, sausage, crawfish, tomatoes, celery, green pepper and onions cooked with rice. Here's a recipe for Cajun style Chicken and Andouille Jambalaya from Louisiana Real and Rustic by Emeril Lagasse.


Chicken and Andouille Jambalaya

1/2 cup vegetable oil
3 cups chopped onions
1 cup chopped bell peppers
3 teaspoons salt
1 1/4 teaspoons cayenne
1 pound andouille, chorizo, or other smoked sausage, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices
1 1/2 pounds boneless white and dark chicken meat, cut into 1-inch cubes
3 bay leaves
3 cups medium-grain white rice
6 cups water
1 cup chopped green onions

Heat the oil in a large cast-iron Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onions, bell peppers, 2 teaspoons of the salt, and 1 teaspoon of the cayenne. Stirring often, brown the vegetables for about 20 minutes, or until they are caramelized and dark brown in color. Scrape the bottom and sides of the pot to loosen any browned particles. Add the sausage and cook, stirring often for 10 to 15 minutes, scraping the bottom and sides of the pot to loosen any browned particles.
Season the chicken with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and remaining 1/4 teaspoon cayenne. Add the chicken and the bay leaves to the pot. Brown the chicken for 8 to 10 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pot to loosen any browned particles.
Add the rice and stir for 2 to 3 minutes to coat evenly. Add the water, stir to combine, and cover. Cook over medium heat for 30 to 35 minutes, without stirring, or until the rice is tender and the liquid has been absorbed. Remove the pot from the heat and let stand, covered, for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the bay leaves.
Stir in the green onions and serve.

Yield: 10 to 12 servings
(a side note on this recipe; I found using 5 cups water is enough and I lower the heat when I add the rice so it doesn't burn on the bottom)


95. Gianduja Chocolate. (also spelled Gianduia) There's a whole story about the origins of this cocoa and hazelnut confection from Torino, Italy. You can read it here. This is addictive, luscious chocolate! Once I made some Gianduja brownies for a party I catered and guests were literally taking platters of brownies out of my hands, not just a brownie or two, but the entire platter. This is the recipe I used.

Gianduja Brownies

Source: Gourmet - February 1998

1 1/4 cups hazelnuts (about 6 1/4 ounces)
4 ounces fine-quality bittersweet chocolate
(not unsweetened)
3 ounces fine-quality milk chocolate
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
1/4 cup Nutella*
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs

*available at specialty foods shops and many supermarkets

Preheat oven to 350°F and butter and flour a 9-inch square baking pan, knocking out excess flour.

Toast and skin hazelnuts (procedure this page). In a food processor pulse hazelnuts until coarsely ground (bits should be about 1/8 inch).

Chop chocolates into small pieces and in a double boiler or a metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water melt chocolates with butter and Nutella, stirring occasionally until smooth. Remove top of double boiler or bowl from heat.

While chocolates are melting, into a bowl sift together flour, baking powder, and a pinch salt. Whisk sugar into chocolate mixture until combined well. Add eggs, whisking until mixture is glossy and smooth. Stir in flour mixture and hazelnuts until just combined.

Pour batter into baking pan and bake in middle of oven 35 to 40 minutes, or until a tester comes out with moist crumbs adhering to it. Cool brownies completely in pan on a rack and cut into 16 squares. Brownies keep, layered between sheets of wax paper in an airtight container at cool room temperature, 5 days.

Makes 16 brownies.


96. Madhur Jaffrey's Ultimate Curry Bible. With over 150 Indian and Asian curry recipes and a few curries from places like South Africa and Europe thrown in, this cookbook is very appropriately named!

97. A Pair of Tongs. Another indispensable kitchen tool. I have a few pairs, one long handled and one short handled, and a pair with heat resistant silicone on the end to use with non-stick cookware.

98. Mole Poblano. A rich and complex sauce from the Mexican state of Pueblo that is made with around 30 different ingredients including toasted, dried chile peppers, nuts, a small amount of Mexican chocolate, spices, onions, stale tortillas and garlic. It is time consuming to make, but worth the effort.

99. Lavender Sorbet. Another sorbet I'd be making if I had an ice cream maker. It is an edible perfume.

Lavender Sorbet

4 cups water
1 3/4 cups sugar
2 teaspoons dried, culinary lavender blossoms
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Bring first 3 ingredients to boil in heavy medium saucepan over high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Boil without stirring until syrup is reduced to 4 cups, about 8 minutes. Strain syrup into medium bowl.
Chill syrup until cold, about 2 hours. Transfer to ice cream maker. Add lemon juice. Process according to manufacturer's instructions. Transfer to covered container, freeze until firm, about 2 hours. (Can be made 1 week ahead. Keep frozen).
Makes about 1 quart

And, finally...

100. Saveur Magazine. If I'd been able to find their 2007 Top 100 List online, I never would have thought to make my own.

Has anyone found it online yet? If so, please send me a link!
.

The best we can hope for

Monday.I would take any day over Monday. Any day. Even my seventeenth birthday, which was a very disappointing day. The only way I might be convinced to change my mind is if Mondays, as a rule, took place in a quiet room with white walls and a wood floor and muted sunlight, a large armchair, a stack of first-rate books, a fudgy brownie, and a small black-and-white dog who sits beside you in

Pumpkin Yeast Bread and Dinner Rolls

Pumpkin Bread Loaf 2 (1 of 1)

First, I hope if you live in or are from the US, you had a very happy Thanksgiving yesterday. I hope your day was full of food, and that you're still recovering. I hope you didn't mind that I didn't bring you yet another turkey or cranberry sauce recipe in the lead-up. But my T-gives (as my sister calls the holiday) was a little different than normal. For one thing, there was only two of us to feed, R and myself. R had to work, and didn't even get home until 9:00 in the evening. But I was determined that we'd feast nonetheless.

Pumpkin Bread slices (1 of 1)

I'll post the entire meal bit by bit over the next few days, but I thought I'd start with this pumpkin yeast bread in case you have leftover, say, turkey in need of some good sandwich bread. Or if you happen to have some leftover pureed pumpkin after all of that pie-making.

Pumpkins at the Farmers Market (1 of 1)

I began searching out a yeasted pumpkin bread after buying a loaf from Gourmet Garage the other week and decimating it almost single-handedly in under three days. This recipe, from King Arthur Flour, was one of the only ones I found. It received rave reviews, but if I'm going to be honest, I thought the pumpkin really receded in this bread, and it was nowhere near as spiced as I would have like. Better for sandwiches than for snacking, I think. Or for receiving a good drizzle of honey. Nothing like homemade bread and honey. If I were to make it again (and I just might, because I still really love the idea), I'd probably go so far as to double the spices. Maybe I'd add some garam marsala to the mix, with its warming fragrance, and maybe some cloves. You know, spice it almost like an exotic gingerbread.

Pumpkin Bread Rolls 2 (1 of 1)

While I wasn't exactly overwhelmed, R loved the little pumpkin dinner rolls I served with our meal. The recipe is large enough that you can divide the dough in half and make two loaves, or one loaf and a dozen rolls. I'll admit that this bread does play second-fiddle quite nicely, sopping up leftover cranberry sauce, perhaps. Which is why I'm suggesting it for the gourmet leftover sandwiches I'm sure you're going to be creating.

Pumpkin Bread Rolls (1 of 1)

If you decide on the rolls, I've written before about a good technique for forming them. If you're going with loaves, King Arthur suggests a 10x15 inch pan, which I don't have. So I decided to make my loaf free-form, and that was just as good. Don't worry about equipment for this one.

Pumpkin Yeast Bread
Adopted from King Arthur Flour

1/2 cup warm water
2 packages (the equivalent of 2 tablespoons) active dry yeast
2/3 cup warm milk
2 large eggs, beaten
1 1/2 cups pureed pumpkin (from a can is fine)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
6 1/2 cups (about) all-purpose flour
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

Stir the yeast into the warm water in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and set aside to allow the yeast to soften while you measure out the rest of the ingredients. Add 4 cups of the flour, as well as the rest of the ingredients, and mix on medium speed for 2 minutes.

Switch to the bread hook at this point, unless you plan to kneed by hand. Gradually add the remaining flour, a bit at a time, and mix into the dough until it is stiff enough to kneed. You can turn it out onto a floured surface to kneed by hand, or you can continue with the dough hook. Kneed until you have a smooth, elastic ball of dough.

Turn the dough out into a large, oiled bowl and turn the dough over so that it gets coated in the oil on all sides. Cover with a clean dish towel and put in a warm place to rise until doubled in size, about 1 hour.

After the dough has risen, turn it back out onto a floured surface and punch it down. Divide the dough in half and form into either two loaves, or into one loaf and about a dozen rolls. Place the loaves and rolls on greased baking sheets, cover, and allow to rise until just about doubled again, about 45 more minutes. Preheat the oven to 375 F.

When the dough is mostly risen, bake it for about 30 minutes for loaves and 20 minutes for rolls. Check early just in case, since everyone's oven is different. When done, they will be brown on the bottom and sound hollow when tapped.

Remove the bread from the oven and cool on a wire rack to room temperature before slicing in.

I've submitted this post to Wild Yeast's Yeastspotting!

Summer Eats in San Francisco

If you've never been to San Francisco you need to know our Summer starts NOW. Yes, in September. Not only is it pretty and warm and sunny but Summer produce--tomatoes, corn, pepper, and peaches are all ripe and delicious at the moment. It's easy to roll your eyes at our "sustainable, local, organic" mantra, but while you're here, be sure to try some of these bites of Summer.

Heirloom Tomato Salad
Around this time of year just about everyone makes a tomato salad, but one that sticks out in my mind as particularly fabulous, is the Heirloom Tomato Salad with mozzarella di bufala, olio verde, basil and olive oil croutons at Scala's Bistro, which is attached to the Sir Francis Drake Hotel at Union Square. It's the variety of tomatoes which are the star of the show, but they share the stage with the milkiest, creamy and moist mozzarella. An interesting addition too is the olive oil croutons which obviously add crunch and body to the salad.

Hapa Ramen
Hapa Ramen isn't exactly like any ramen I have had before. The Slow Cooked Ramen with seasonal vegetables is the one to seek out. The broth is layered with richness and the bits of pork make it a meal. The broth is a little bit sweet and a little bit salty. But it's the fresh and super sweet crunch of corn that really makes this ramen something special. You can find it at the Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market on Thursdays or at Off the Grid on Fridays.

Shishito Peppers
I don't know exactly when shishito peppers started showing up at farmer's markets but I think I first saw them about 2 or 3 years ago. I had tried them in Japan and was thrilled to see them not just in markets, but on restaurant menus as well. They are typically quickly fried then sprinkled with salt. But at Hog & Rocks in the Mission District they go one step further and add a squeeze of lime. The result is bright and lively, the perfect bar snack. Mostly these peppers are mild and sweet with an earthy green flavor, but every once in a while you will get a spicy one!

Scream Sorbet
My last Summer pick is the sorbet from Scream Sorbet. These surprisingly creamy, dairy-free sorbets made from Summer fruit are an intense blast of flavor. Despite not having a retail location yet, they made 7x7's recent The Big Sweet SF: 50 Treats to eat before you die. Fortunately you can find the sorbet at many farmer's markets around the Bay Area including the San Francisco Ferry Plaza on Thursdays. Try the seasonal fruit flavors like Flavorosa pluot, peach, raspberry and August Fire nectarine. They are not sickly sweet but tangy and juicy in a way that "screams" Summer. And what could be better than that?

Scala's Bistro
432 Powell Street
San Francisco
(415) 395-8555

Hog & Rocks
3431 19th Street
San Francisco
(415) 550-8627

Ferry Plaza Farmers Market
1 Ferry Building
San Francisco

Off the Grid
Fort Mason Center
San Francisco

La Fête du Fromage


This week there was so much going on that we only took the time to try one lovely cheese, Reblochon de Savoie.

The mountainous Haut-Savoie region in central, eastern France is the home to this AOC celebrated cheese. Reblochon is made from the unpasteurized milk of three different breeds of cattle: the Abondance, the Tarine and the Montbéliarde. It has an interesting history...in the 13th Century farmers in this region were taxed on milk production. So, with the tax man literally watching over their shoulder, they would take only half the milk from the cow, pretending that they had gotten it all, pay the tax, then sneak back and get the rest of the milk. The family then make their cheese with this higher-in-butterfat milk from the second milking.
Reblochon is supple, smooth and moist with fresh, grassy aromas and buttery, rich and hazelnut flavors. This is an all around delicious cheese that is wonderful to nibble on with some dry cured saucisson or to cook with. The most famous dish made with Reblochon is Tartiflette, a heavy potato, bacon, cheese and onion dish that is the ultimate, stick-to-your-ribs, winter dish. Here's a recipe.
Wine to pair with Reblochon: a white vin de Savoie or a fruity red such as Beaujolais-Villages

Paris

I'm off to Paris this afternoon for six days!

Tuesday will find me eating lots of cheese for la Fête du Fromage but not writing about it until I return Thursday.
à bientôt.


I love Paris in the springtime...